Clutch arm / shaft
Posted: 09 Jun 2014, 11:41
Me again,
When I replaced my engine I stuck a new clutch release cross shaft in, as a finger had sheared off the old one.
Now the clutch has a slight drag, and doesn't fully disengage - makes getting reverse a particularity crunchy experience.
Checked the hydraulics weren't leaking (including the slave under the rubber boot) and bled it, but still no joy (although my slave bleed nipple snapped off - bit grumpy as its less than 2 years old.) Lucky enough it was sealed when it snapped, so don't need to replace the slave quite yet.
Comparing the old shaft and the new though highlights the issue - the splines are not in the same place (its not fully splined, so you can't just rotate the lever round a few splines!)
Don't fancy removing the engine / gearbox again (as have lost the garage so back out in the street)to replace the cross shaft so was wondering if there were any other ways I could achieve a fully working clutch. Was considering grinding off the ball on the end and replacing with a threaded bar / ball combo so that I could adjust the length to take up the slack caused by the inccorectly aligned splines.
Any reasons why this won't work, or does anyone have a cunning plan?
I hate the fact that even pricey parts are not quite right - there are very few other things you buy where the level of crap would be acceptable!
Cheers,
Alex
When I replaced my engine I stuck a new clutch release cross shaft in, as a finger had sheared off the old one.
Now the clutch has a slight drag, and doesn't fully disengage - makes getting reverse a particularity crunchy experience.
Checked the hydraulics weren't leaking (including the slave under the rubber boot) and bled it, but still no joy (although my slave bleed nipple snapped off - bit grumpy as its less than 2 years old.) Lucky enough it was sealed when it snapped, so don't need to replace the slave quite yet.
Comparing the old shaft and the new though highlights the issue - the splines are not in the same place (its not fully splined, so you can't just rotate the lever round a few splines!)
Don't fancy removing the engine / gearbox again (as have lost the garage so back out in the street)to replace the cross shaft so was wondering if there were any other ways I could achieve a fully working clutch. Was considering grinding off the ball on the end and replacing with a threaded bar / ball combo so that I could adjust the length to take up the slack caused by the inccorectly aligned splines.
Any reasons why this won't work, or does anyone have a cunning plan?
I hate the fact that even pricey parts are not quite right - there are very few other things you buy where the level of crap would be acceptable!
Cheers,
Alex