Club 80-90 Forums

I have 1987 water-cooled 1.9 petrol engine.

All has been running ok except it has been cutting out quite often at traffic lights and junctions when pulling away from idle. I have to consciously keep the revs up and if necessary slip the clutch to stop it stalling.

I have lived with it like this for some months (used several times a week) as it seems to run Ok on the open road.

Suddenly today it has started cutting out when the throttle is off, even approaching roundabouts and traffic lights when still in gear. Starts again and runs ok, but have to slip the cluthc to get going.

So even when reversing, engine cuts out as soon as the throttle is closed.

When starting from cold the choke keeps the engine running ok. But when the choke has stopped operating the engine cuts out and will not tick over.

It has the SE3 carburettor. I can not see any obvious balance pipes or wires disconnected.

What might be happening, could the carborettor need cleaning or something adjusting.

Any ideas much appreciated.

No, don't go adjusting things, it's very unlikely an adjustment screw has moved out of it's correct position on it's own.

First thing to check is for air leaks anywhere around the carb (the carb's base, the thin vacuum pipes on the carb and dizzy, the brake servo hose (left side of inlet manifold), etc).

This is the most common cause of your symptoms, but if you find no leaks then post back and "we" can start looking at the next most likely thing.

ghost123uk wrote:No, don't go adjusting things, it's very unlikely an adjustment screw has moved out of it's correct position on it's own.

First thing to check is for air leaks anywhere around the carb (the carb's base, the thin vacuum pipes on the carb and dizzy, the brake servo hose (left side of inlet manifold), etc).

This is the most common cause of your symptoms, but if you find no leaks then post back and "we" can start looking at the next most likely thing.

Thank you. I will check the all the hoses again. I have also been reading/posting on another forum thread "Pierburg 2e3 problems" after I posted this new thread, which has some more info about air leaks and maybe blocked pilot jet. Maybe you could have a look at the thread and see if anything you can help with.

http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... 3#p7990213" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

As John says, DEFINATELY do not adjust. If it worked ok before, suspect air leaks or other causes but it won't be adjustment.

Heres one that is SO easy to overlook. Air filter. If its been in there for some time it could well be blocked. I had a dying idle problem and it was only when I changed the air filter that I cured it. If the engine is sucking through a tight straw it gets starved of oxygen for combustion and it often only shows itself at idle. Likewise if extra air is introduced (say through an ill fitting vac hose or leaky gasket) then the idle is affected. Under larger throttle openings this effect is less noticeable but as soon as you get to idle speed, the fuel/oxygen ratio has to be 'just so' (and predictably so) or it will fizzle out. Getting an engine to tick over, and not a great deal above stall speed, requires a very carefully metered dose of the mixture. Too much and you can flood it, too little and it won't run.

I had\have a similar problem. the van 1.9 petrol, some times will not idle.

I think it all stems from a service I had done on the van about a year ago. For some reason they overfilled the oil level to above the max marking. I only became aware of this when, on the motorway i saw a white cloud of smoke in the rear view mirror. I stopped fearing the worst and found that oil was being blown out back into the air intake and dripping onto a exhaust pipe. As I got off the motorway the van would not idle. Called out the RAC and they suggested spraying carb cleaner in. This appeared to solve the problem and van would now idle. However I still intermittently get the same problem with not idling.

I am assuming that the carb really needs to be cleaned properly. Is this an easy job to do? Will I need a new gasket set etc?

probably will need a new gasket John.
when the carb is split the gasket tends to tear itself to bits
In your case pay particular attention to the airways that lead in from the top of the carb.

and change the air filter, if you haven't that is.

johncccc wrote:I had\have a similar problem. the van 1.9 petrol, some times will not idle.

I think it all stems from a service I had done on the van about a year ago. For some reason they overfilled the oil level to above the max marking. I only became aware of this when, on the motorway i saw a white cloud of smoke in the rear view mirror. I stopped fearing the worst and found that oil was being blown out back into the air intake and dripping onto a exhaust pipe. As I got off the motorway the van would not idle. Called out the RAC and they suggested spraying carb cleaner in. This appeared to solve the problem and van would now idle. However I still intermittently get the same problem with not idling.

I am assuming that the carb really needs to be cleaned properly. Is this an easy job to do? Will I need a new gasket set etc?

Your aa man is less experienced than me, and that's saying something!! Yes the carb will be filthy but more importantly, change the air filter. Some idiot (ahem ) over filled with oil and drove with it to work and back (40'ish miles). Gave me problems which weren't sorted until I looked at the air filter. It was DRIPPING. Changed and sorted, happy motoring. That was over a year ago, only this weekend, I had a look at the carb with Itchyfeet and yes, the carb does have an awful lot of black oily residue in it. It needs a thorough clean but I'm apprehensive as I don't want to create any further issues at this stage by dislodging junk.

Thanks for the advice. I will change the air filter to start with.

Please, let me/us know how you get on with this. Mitch.

Finally took the carb to pieces last weekend. I found there was a small amount of what looks like sand in the bottom of the float chamber. I am sure it is this that has been causing me problems. So far the van has been running fine but have yet to do any long journeys.

Problem not resolved.

The magnets under the fuel tank seem to have worked for a while. Anyway was running ok for the last three weeks, until two days ago!! Then stuttereed up a hill, cutting out. Then five minutes with a downhill run, clreared itself.

Two days later and running lumpy and cutting out..

I suspect that it might be fuel starvation. I have changed the inline filter (which had some brownish/yellowish sludge) and checked the conical filter in the cab (which was perfectly clean).

So could it be sludge in the tank covering the outlet. Sometimes the problem occurrs uphill, and as the outelt is on a lowere level at the back of the tank, the sludge could be moving back. Also have had problems when fuel level is very low.

Other than changing the tank, is it possible to somwhow drain the sludge?

joyful wrote:
Other than changing the tank, is it possible to somwhow drain the sludge?

yes remove the tank and wash it out from the fuel sender hole

Taking out the tank and cleaning out Tue sludge us nit that easy I would think. It had been there since 1986 and the bolts might be a bit stubborn. Is it possible to suck out sludge whilst in situ

joyful wrote:Taking out the tank and cleaning out Tue sludge us nit that easy I would think. It had been there since 1986 and the bolts might be a bit stubborn. Is it possible to suck out sludge whilst in situ

no
and it is easy to drop the tank.
Finding out your tank has rotted away, letting water in, causing you all this grief is the payback

refitting it is a ball ache.

What Kev states is correct. You'd need to drop the tank to do the job. However, if the tank is the original then is likely started to rust as water can sit on the top of it. Do you ever notice the smell of petrol or noticed a leak when filling up?

To drop the tank isn't the easiest job but providing you safely support the front of the van on stands to gain some decent height then its straight forward a job.

If it is original then I'd check that a new one is readily available beforehand together with a fuel float sender gasket, and the plastic pipe connectotrs that leave the tank up to the expansion tanks as they are likely to break. Not a bad idea either to coat the top of the new tank with waxoil or sililar to protect it for the future. Oh, and squirt some plus gas onto the securing bolts a day or three before you begin to give a chance or not snapping them.