Club 80-90 Forums

Hi,

I have searched through wiki and other posts and i can't find anything around this

Two weeks ago i changed the oil and filter on my 1983 DG petrol engine. Last week i then replaced dizzy cap, plugs and HT leads. I did have a replacement rotor arm but the guy at JK gave me a normal type rotor but when i removed the cap i found it to be a self governing type, so i didn't change but did change everything else. I went to start her afterwards, she did run but didn't sound great, coughed and spluttered and didn't sound like it was firing well. I turned her off and checked i had the HT leads in the right order, i checked and all 1432 order was correct. I then tried plugs, checked the gaps, all correct and good spark.

I then noticed one of the old material covered old type fuel hose was sopping wet with petrol. Fortunately i had planned to change the fuel hoses and had bought some. So i changed it. I also put a new in line fuel filter. I then tried to start again, no joy wouldn't even fire. The sound is best described as it makes a popping sound like i have removed two plugs or something

I then checked the fuel pump and seems to be working fine. In my paranoia i checked everything else again. Fuel filter flowing in the right direction, sparking plugs etc. One thing i did expect to see, but didn't was that the plugs were not wet with petrol. Is this suggesting fuel is not getting through to the plugs? Have i got excessive air in the fuel hoses, would this make that difference? Could i put a small amount of petrol in the air intake?

I'm not experienced as a mechanic, but have serviced a number of cars over the years and have never experienced this kind of problem before. Any suggestions or ideas would be extremely welcome

If you've got a good spark at the plugs and correct gap it can only be fuel issue. Pump working well and fuel hose between pump and carb is not blocked, then next thing is the fuel filter at the carb itself (the brass gauze thing) which is often overlooked. If that's ok then possible blocked jets in the carb. Take off top box and peer into carb throat and manually operate the throttle linkage, you should see/hear the fuel.........?
I have a can of easy start for just such days!
Keep us posted..

Distributor cap not seated properly?

I'll check that too Marlinowner, thanks

fairwynds wrote:If you've got a good spark at the plugs and correct gap it can only be fuel issue. Pump working well and fuel hose between pump and carb is not blocked, then next thing is the fuel filter at the carb itself (the brass gauze thing) which is often overlooked. If that's ok then possible blocked jets in the carb. Take off top box and peer into carb throat and manually operate the throttle linkage, you should see/hear the fuel.........?
I have a can of easy start for just such days!
Keep us posted..

Fantastic thanks Fairwynds, i'll check the hose between pump and carb as i haven't checked that or have i checked the carb itself, when it stops raining. I think i'll get some easy start too I'll keep you posted, thanks for your suggestions.

I had this when I was 180° out when changed my leads. Had the right order, just counted from the wrong start point

Have you tried putting old dizzy cap on, just to eliminate the new one not being duff, missing slightly?

I mean if they sent you the wrong rotor arm, who knows what else they've sent

Sorry to Fairywinds, but for goodness sake DO NOT use easystart. This is not what it is for and it can break piston rings. Don't cure the symptoms, cure the cause.

Checking the fuel supply is easy, take the pipe off the carb, put it into a plastic milk bottle or similar and crank the engine over. There should be a healthy squirting of fuel (did someone already say that above).

From your symptoms = "The sound is best described as it makes a popping sound like i have removed two plugs or something" I would say, despite your checking, you have the leads on incorrectly, or as suggested ^^^ the cap is faulty. This might help, but note that very occasionally you find an engine that has been re-assembled so that the timing is 180 degrees (half a turn) out at the dizzy, it is a rare occurrence, but worth mentioning.

Not sure if you've sorted it yet, but I had a similar problem following giving ours a full service last Monday, including new ignition leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm. After a few miles got really really lumpy and I thought it was the fuel injection system, particularly as practically all of the ignition system was new. Before I looked at that, as it seemed such a coincidence following the service, I replaced the new dizzy cap and rotor arm with the old dizzy cap and rotor arm and she now runs as smooth as silk. Apparently some of the after market parts are just rubbish!

And only ever replace one lead at a time - less chance of messing up. Its worth drawing a simple map on a sticker in engine bay.

CovKid wrote:And only ever replace one lead at a time - less chance of messing up. Its worth drawing a simple map on a sticker in engine bay.

This is the best way to make sure they're right but if you do take them all off simply make take the dizzy cap off, make sure you're at TDC and whereever the rotor arm points is #1 on the cap, so connect that to #1. Of course you could end up 180° out as I did because it takes 2 full revolutions.

stick the old plugs back in, try it, put the old cap on, try it, put the old leads back on and then try it again... its too much of a coincidence that it has a problem right after you changed the parts .you can Never be 100 certain that the new parts are working, I always remove the old parts carefully and put to one side untill I know the new ones are correct and working, it has happened to me lots of times that parts are supplied wrong or faulty . Then if all is good with the new ones I put the old ones in a van for good spares.

Are you sure that you havnt dislodged a vacuum pipe to the distributor ?

to me it defo sounds like a spark related problem, be methodical and work backwards

let us know how you get on.

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. As usual this forum has been invaluable in it's advice and information.

For an update. I cleaned out the carb removed the gauze filter on the inlet of the carb. Put all the old parts back on, it still wouldn't start! I changed all the fuel hoses, checked the petrol pump, twice.

I then put all new parts back on and looked back on this forum and saw more suggestions, then saw ghost123's post........and well, embarassingly. Guess what?
Yes, i had the leads on all wrong, i had asumed 1432 one cylinder being front (as you look at it) not from the front of the vehicle. What a complete tw*t

I have learnt a valuable lesson and to be fair i have learnt alot about the van and i'm pleased i have changed the hoses too. The carb being cleaned out has meant it's running the best it ever has. So thanks all for the advice. I feel complete fool, but a happy fool that it's sorted

Glad it's sorted

You aren't the first and won't be the last make that lil error

Cheers ghost

Or a loosely fitted centre lead. Happened to me on the way to work today. Van died just as I pulled away at lights. Coasted just around corner. Had to leave little lad sat in van on double-yellow lines while I ran to get a gallon of fuel half a mile away - not easy at 55. Legs felt like lead coming back. Convinced it must be low fuel as guage not overly accurate. Puffed out, poured in petrol, still no start. Lifted hatch and centre lead just hanging there.....