Club 80-90 Forums

How Do! I'm struggling again...

So I've had a good crack at the tiny bit of threaded stub that's sticking up above the square 'thick washer' that I think(?) is welded to the mounting arms.

Tool of choice was a good pair of blue point vice grips and I tried a bit of WD40 and got a good lock and wiggle on - they're not going anywhere though, so I need a new angle of attack.

In one post I read, there was talk of using the grips on the 'thick washer' but to me it looks like that bit should stay put - I had a half-attempt at shifting it with the grips but it didn't seem very productive.

I guess I'm in with the drill next - could someone walk me through this a bit?

My thoughts - use a mains power drill to ensure plenty of grunt, with a high quality brand new drill tip (3mm then 5mm maybe?) and a spare one on hand for when I break it, then get stuck in...carefully...

Do I stop at the lower domes/caps or go straight through them?

Do I need a tap afterwards or will the old bolts fall out leaving space for the new?

Laugh with me if you have to - I can appreciate that my questions are not exactly 'challenging' for you veterans.

All advice gratefully received!

A hammer and chisel was used to remove mine.

As Rob says ^^^^^^^^ Hammer and a sharp 'medium' chisel......on the edge of the dome. The bolts aren't normally very tight and usually rust free so move fairly easily.

Martin

Just to be 100% sure - these things are supposed to come out from the top of the dash, not from below it..?

My bolts are rusty, and there's not much to hit with a chisel - particularly now I've had a set of grips on them.

The grips were well locked on, but not a hint of bolt movement so I can't imagine the bolts are anything but 'tight'.

Basically, I've had the grips held vertically (nose down) with nose of the grips pressed up against the 'thick washer', gripping the 1/8" threaded stub sticking up - then tried to turn ant-clockwise to undo, using a screwdriver jammed between the grips. There's hardly any room for movement as the grips are pretty tight against the brake fluid reservoir.

I've not made any attack on the lower domes/caps that look to me like they have 'received' the bolt when originally fitted. They are certainly not sheared-heads. The only thing that looks sheared is the stub at the top I've been struggling with.

Cheers

Well I've done a little bit of googling and it seems a left-hand dill bit used in a reversible drill is the proper way to drill out a sheared bolt. Can't remember seeing one of them down B & Q but if I need a new drill bit anyway I might as well give it a shot...

Midge wrote:Just to be 100% sure - these things are supposed to come out from the top of the dash, not from below it..?

My bolts are rusty, and there's not much to hit with a chisel - particularly now I've had a set of grips on them.

The grips were well locked on, but not a hint of bolt movement so I can't imagine the bolts are anything but 'tight'.

Basically, I've had the grips held vertically (nose down) with nose of the grips pressed up against the 'thick washer', gripping the 1/8" threaded stub sticking up - then tried to turn ant-clockwise to undo, using a screwdriver jammed between the grips. There's hardly any room for movement as the grips are pretty tight against the brake fluid reservoir.

I've not made any attack on the lower domes/caps that look to me like they have 'received' the bolt when originally fitted. They are certainly not sheared-heads. The only thing that looks sheared is the stub at the top I've been struggling with.

Cheers

When I removed my steering column I removed the cone shaped "nuts" on the lower side. Grips worked on one but I had to tap a bit with a hammer and chisel to loosen the other. Used standard niloc nuts when I refitted.

I welded on a half-nut. Any old bit of metal with a hole will do.

SamsBus2012 wrote:

Midge wrote:Just to be 100% sure - these things are supposed to come out from the top of the dash, not from below it..?

My bolts are rusty, and there's not much to hit with a chisel - particularly now I've had a set of grips on them.

The grips were well locked on, but not a hint of bolt movement so I can't imagine the bolts are anything but 'tight'.

Basically, I've had the grips held vertically (nose down) with nose of the grips pressed up against the 'thick washer', gripping the 1/8" threaded stub sticking up - then tried to turn ant-clockwise to undo, using a screwdriver jammed between the grips. There's hardly any room for movement as the grips are pretty tight against the brake fluid reservoir.

I've not made any attack on the lower domes/caps that look to me like they have 'received' the bolt when originally fitted. They are certainly not sheared-heads. The only thing that looks sheared is the stub at the top I've been struggling with.

Cheers

When I removed my steering column I removed the cone shaped "nuts" on the lower side. Grips worked on one but I had to tap a bit with a hammer and chisel to loosen the other. Used standard niloc nuts when I refitted.

Does this help

I have maybe been attacking the wrong end of the bolt?

Haven't got a clue to be honest - will put photo's on tomorrow.

If the usual vice grip procedure is nowhere near the brake fluid reservoir then I have been attempting to wind the shear bolt in the wrong direction, perhaps.

Thing is, I figured a sheared bolt would effectively just be a stud - like a piece of threaded bar. The smooth domey things on the bottom have thrown me right out - sounds like I should be removing them from that end...

So chewing up the threaded top end may not have done me any favours when it comes to round 2

Midge wrote:I have maybe been attacking the wrong end of the bolt?

Haven't got a clue to be honest - will put photo's on tomorrow.

If the usual vice grip procedure is nowhere near the brake fluid reservoir then I have been attempting to wind the shear bolt in the wrong direction, perhaps.

Thing is, I figured a sheared bolt would effectively just be a stud - like a piece of threaded bar. The smooth domey things on the bottom have thrown me right out - sounds like I should be removing them from that end...

So chewing up the threaded top end may not have done me any favours when it comes to round 2

The 'Dome' is the sheared off head of a 'shear bolt'...the shear bolt is removed by chiselling the dome anti-clockwise from underneath, not on top (as you would any other bolt) Make a good grove in it first 'with the chisel' then angle the chisel to knock the head anti-clockwise.

You may have damaged the threads on the opposite side but hopefully this won't effect the loosening and with a bit of luck you will get at least one full turn before the damaged thread stops the bolt, by which time there should be more of the domed head exposed to get the locking pliers clamped on to.

Martin

Hey California Dreamin' - thanks Man

So... not one of my greatest victories yet then. Just in case there are other fools-with-tools as daft as me

This is wrong, oh so very wrong.


This is the enemy, take it out.


Not sure if the flat round bit a loose washer or a flange that's part of the bolt. Mr Chisel will investigate tonight...

Cheers, Midge

PS Obviously I managed to get a slight turn even going at it the wrong way, me being so strong an' all. It's Natures compensation for my total lack of mechanical understanding.

i would suggest a a screwdriver slit cut with an angle grinder but there again maybe not
you should get a set of grips on that easy enough and the flat thing IS a washer why you taking it all to bits? oh and remember the steering wheel fits on the o/s
mm

Good informative pictures there Midge

Would you mind having the second one included in the wiki ?

metalmick8y wrote:i would suggest a a screwdriver slit cut with an angle grinder but there again maybe not
you should get a set of grips on that easy enough and the flat thing IS a washer why you taking it all to bits? oh and remember the steering wheel fits on the o/s
mm

Cheers MM, yeah a screwdriver sounds nice & safe, but the power tools will be a different story. I probably don't need all of these fingers though, technically.

I think the blower fan motor is kaput, it sure don't blow (in fact it sucks, as far as I'm concerned) and it heats up the switch (which tests out okay in isolation) and it blows a 20a fuse.

Hence I started digging this hole which I've now fallen into...

ghost123uk wrote:Good informative pictures there Midge

Would you mind having the second one included in the wiki ?

Sure, it's no problem at all, glad to contribute!