Club 80-90 Forums

Whilst waiting for my new angle grinder to turn up I have been looking at alternatives for the rubber mats on the cab door step.

I don't want holes in the new steps to fit the OEM mats so... I was thinking about using something like the non-slip flowcoat that we are using on our boat deck. It is tough and UV stable but I am not sure how well it will go over the rustoleum paint that the wagon is painted with.

http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/p ... -9005.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Has anyone got experience of using styrene based products over rustoleum? I know it shouldn't be used over cellulose as the styrene in the resin breaks down and wrinkles the cellulose.

Here is a link to the msds for the rustoleum, hopefully someone with more chemistry knowledge than me can advise?

http://www.rawlinspaints.co.uk/pdf/combicolour_msds.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Or perhaps there is a better solution that can be applied neatly without holes OR maybe I am just being mad by trying to avoid using the OEM mats...opinions welcome!

I stand to be corrected here, but I think the cab steps may need the holes for drainage. Our (recently sold) Hi-Top had solid step plates and when it rained the used to get a puddle of water in them. Our Ti-Top has the holes and doesn't do this. As I say, I could be wrong though but worth checking.

From looking at the restoration posts that mm puts up I was hoping I could put a slight fall on the new step to direct any water outside.

Do you think that could work?

Oooo, I'm no expert in this field. Hopefully MM will notice this thread and comment

More of an expert than me...I have owned my T25 for a grand total of 7 days!

Thanks for taking the time to reply, like I said, any help is greatly appreciated

Why not just cut the lugs off the bottom of standard step mats and silicon them on, unless you fancy something different of course.

I just figured they will trap moisture under the mats and slowly start the rot process all over again plus I have about 5 litres of non-slip flowcoat leftover from working on the boat. The existing mats are beyond saving so just trying to penny pinch where I can as I have lots of panels to buy

Whilst we wait for the guru himself to reply, this link is taken from his Mallyvagon thread,
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... &start=195" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Half way down he uses something (?) to paint the step. I'm sure mm will be along soon to explain all.

I've been wondering about this too, but will be drilling holes regardless as I usually have my van parked at the side of the road on a camber, so even with a slope on the step it will pool water on one side, the step would have to be at a steep angle to drain water out the side.

But thanks for this thread - I didn't realise the mats had lugs underneath, as i've never owned any

I cut the lugs off & silicon'd my mats in place a couple of years ago because my van had had new steps welded in without holes. After 12 months the rust started staining the paint around the steps so I pull the mats off & binned them. My steps have now just got a coat of rustoleum and stone chip paint.

HI Boxy

Is the step slippery when wet?

Cheers
Cyrus

Some bodger welder fitted a plate over the whole step when I asked for a small hole to be patched
Never had any puddles but it looks awful and the door has never shut properly since

If only every town had a meal micky

Itchyfeet it seems there are many more bodger welders than good ones. I guess the extra height of the step fouls on the door bottom?

I will have to check that as we rebuild the steps as I don't want to end up with a nicely welded step but a door that wont close

thecyrusvirus wrote:Itchyfeet it seems there are many more bodger welders than good ones. I guess the extra height of the step fouls on the door bottom?

I will have to check that as we rebuild the steps as I don't want to end up with a nicely welded step but a door that wont close

The bodger welded the plate so it sticks out and hits the door seal
I have ground it back but it really needs removing but how I don't know how

It still does not shut properly so you may be right about the extra height

Before we let loose with the welder I am going to read every single resto thread on here to try and avoid making bodges...however, I am sure we will still make a few.

Thanks for all the input guys