I went through this where does the relay coil wire come from malarkey a few months back . . . and the outcome was that if you pull a feed from under the dash NOT to take one from the Ignition On terminal as this will pull your relay closed [for the split charge] which parallels your batteries up allowing both to be charged from the alternator feed. The problem with this is that as soon as ignition is on, the relay closes and as you crank the motor you are drawing HUGE starting currents from BOTH batteries not just the van/engine one... this does not at fist glance appear to be a bad thing [loadsa power to crank engine] but the relay [if its only a pissy 30 amp jobbie] will probably be hugely overloaded and may fail !
As far as i am aware the terminal stated in the thread above only becomes live at full voltage when the alternator is spinning up to full speed + full output voltage, so as you put the ignition on + as you crank the engine the relay is open + only the engine battery is used for starting !
Im not sure if the cable from the alternator terminal is available behind the dash, or if you have to go to the alternator itself ????
Im sure someone will follow this post with more info.....
When they do .. answer me this ... Is my theory of an alternator output terminal NOT becoming LIVE until engine running up to speed Correct ??
And is this why sometimes when you start a motor, the charge light stays on until you blip the throttle ?? [im guessing the charge light is linked with this output... Light goes off when output from said terminal is up to voltage ....
Im assuming also that the fridge DOES NOT WANT TO BE LIVE AFTER YOU STOP THE VAN as this would wipe out the battery in no time, BUT THE RELAY LETS THE FRIDGE RUN ON THE ALTERNATOR WHEN DRIVING ????
COMMENTS PLEASE ????????????????????????????
