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Rounded Sump Bolt
Posted: 27 Oct 2006, 15:38
by Turbokomet
I Have decided to change the oil etc on my van.
1st job undo sump bolt.... bolt rounded off
can go no further.
Has been done up really and i mean really tight.
Have plus gassed it and am waiting.
Anybody got an idea if I can get a replacement if I manage to get it off?
Posted: 27 Oct 2006, 15:47
by Westy.Club.Joker
Good pair of mole grips is a last resort to get it undone. Have you tried a single-hexagon socket (6 sided like the bolt was), the 12 sided bi-hex ones are crap for chewing bolts.
New sump plug should be available from VW for not much I would think. Get one before you remove the knacked one.
Posted: 27 Oct 2006, 15:49
by ROBS T25
yeah sump plugs are only a few quid what about weilding a nut on to it see if that will work should do
Posted: 27 Oct 2006, 16:40
by stuckin88
You dont say what engine--if its a petrol be prepared for stripped thread in the sump when you get it out --it can be helicoiled tho--you can buy sump plug from VW dealer parts dept--yool need a new copper washer as well--
Posted: 27 Oct 2006, 19:19
by HarryMann
Posted: 27 Oct 2006, 19:38
by Turbokomet
Its a turbo diesel engine, and the sump bolt faces the rear of the vehicle located in a cut-out of the under engine steel shroud.
The bolt (I still haven't shifted it) is steel, and the sump is alloy.
I intend to spend tomorrow with a file trying to file flats to get a smaller spanner on it.
Failing this I may attempt drilling it out.
I am reluctant to hit it due to fear of damaging the alloy sump.
Thanks for your replies, fingers crossed tomorrow.
Posted: 27 Oct 2006, 19:52
by R0B
its this type is it....
Posted: 27 Oct 2006, 20:00
by Turbokomet
That's it alright, 'cept mine's not as hexagonal as that!
Please don't tell me it's a lefthander!
Posted: 27 Oct 2006, 20:08
by R0B
no its a right hander...
Please don't tell me it's a lefthander
Posted: 27 Oct 2006, 20:11
by HarryMann
If you don't want to risk a bolt punch, then maybe try all your hex/impact style sockets one size down. Drive one that seems to fit quite firmly on with a hammer and then get someone to tap the end of the T-Bar/power bar as you apply progressively more undo torque.
..and can't you first remove all that garbage that seems to be in the way
Looks like that's half the problem
Posted: 29 Oct 2006, 09:37
by Bilbo Blue
The JX engine has two sump plugs on it. The other one is at the front of the sump pointing towards gearbox. Try that one.
Posted: 29 Oct 2006, 10:43
by HarryMann
Mine hasn't... and others I've seen haven't. The front ones still a blank casting boss.
Don't Syncros have them just at the front and 2WD ones just at the back?
Posted: 29 Oct 2006, 17:29
by Simon Baxter
Bilbo Blue wrote:The JX engine has two sump plugs on it. The other one is at the front of the sump pointing towards gearbox. Try that one.
Some do, some don't.
As a general rule they have one.
Posted: 29 Oct 2006, 19:13
by Bendyknees
If all fails i use these. I have a complete set now near enough, have never failed to remove anything ive put them on. And as a bonus they are pretty cheap too! Your local machine mart an halfords stock them usually as well.
http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jht ... Prod100512
They do normally mangle the hex head, but if its gotta come out its gotta come out
Posted: 29 Oct 2006, 20:02
by moloko
Try a suitable sized pair of stilsons with nice sharp teeth and stick a hollow bar on the handle for leverage,option 2 beat the s**t out of bolt head to spread head and free off, then beat on a good quality socket (this may sound a bit animal but is how most mechanics deal with this problem,hitting the bolt will loosen the threads.)Always use the correct sized omni directional multi velocity impact tool(hammer)Good luck :