Club 80-90 Forums

been a while and i cant remember how to get the drum off my brakes one is seized on and i need to get it off

If star adjusters backed off properly, you may need a lump hammer to persuade the drum to start moving.

i have undone the castle bolt and the two small bolts on the front is that all i need to undo to get the drum off ? i can feel that it is seized on
which way do i turn the adjuster to slaken ?
thanks for the help

You don't need to undo the castle nut to remove the drum.

As Rob says, castle nut can stay put. Once those two bolts are out, the only thing holding the drum on is excessive rust (centre) and those star nuts (one for each drum). Don't worry, since few of us have to back off or adjust them regularly, we all tend to forget which way to turn them. You'll soon know though as the wrong way makes drum lock up solid - the other backs it off.

Once backed off, use a lump hammer, tapping gently around the drum from the back until it gives in and starts to come off. You may need to back shoes off a bit more if it is still stubborn. A little plusgas or other rust penerating fluid sprayed on to the circular line on the face where it meets hub centre will help!

This pic should help you to work out which way to knock the star nut round (right hand wheel). Its actually a bay, but its identical layout - click pic for bigger version. Its worth really cleaning the threads on auto-brake adjuster when its all apart so it moves freely.

thanks forthe detail i am worried as it has been seized for ages anmd when i towed it last the wheel just skidded and would not turn so not sure how i will free it

I tried bumping the rear brakes off in reverse. It wrecked them.

Looks like the hand brake is 'ON' in that particular picture ....the hand brake lever should be well over to the left against its stop.

I'm wondering if you can tell if the handbrake cable is 'retracting' into the drum?

Martin

dirty-syncro-lover wrote:thanks forthe detail i am worried as it has been seized for ages anmd when i towed it last the wheel just skidded and would not turn so not sure how i will free it

Put half a tonne of rubble/iron/kids or whatever in the back. That ought to stop the tyres skidding along. Choose a dry day when the roads aren't damp. Fingers crossed.

California Dreamin wrote:Looks like the hand brake is 'ON' in that particular picture ....the hand brake lever should be well over to the left against its stop.

I'm wondering if you can tell if the handbrake cable is 'retracting' into the drum?

Martin

ahhh that'l be the file photo showing test mode
mm

Nah, biggest worry about that pic is rear is on a scissor jack on grass. You can just see an axle stand but not sure I'd want to crawl under there

Only thing I can add is: make sure the handbrake is fully off and the cable retracting into the backplate. Lots of PlusGas around the wheel bolts and flange. A large lump hammer hit squarely on the drum face (but don't hit the threads) bounce the thing off....tap on the side/hit on the face/tap on the side/hit on the face.

Dropping the clutch repeatedly is the first option though....it will go with a 'bang' when it does finally release.

Martin

California Dreamin wrote: A large lump hammer hit squarely on the drum face (but don't hit the threads) bounce the thing off....tap on the side/hit on the face/tap on the side/hit on the face.

Whenever I have to do this (to any vehicle) I always worry I will crack/break the drum It's never happened (yet)

California Dreamin wrote:Dropping the clutch repeatedly is the first option though....it will go with a 'bang' when it does finally release.

The half shafts make a 'bang' too, when they break (only joking, I hope ) (that did happen to me, on a Bedford CF)

I normally find really pushing down on the brake pedal frees the shoes. It exerts miles more pressure than pulling the handbrake on,