Club 80-90 Forums

do i need the whole new part or can i just get the black piece at the side of the hall sender that the
wires connect to? i have an 1987 vw type 25 , someone told me i dont need the whole hall sender but i cant
find the black piece on its own ? Help? http://www.justkampers.com/034-998-065- ... -1992.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The wires from the Hall sender are crimped into the black plug. They're not supposed to be taken apart? Why do you need a new plug?

what should i do? because it keeps cutting out, guy from garage said could i not
get that bit seperately, or do you think i would be better just buying the whole new hall sender
as it has a bad connection and keeps cutting out, what do you think? :/

Get the whole thing, you dont want that being unreliable

can be hard to get the vane off, i reccomend soaking in plus gas and removing tye dizzy and doing it in a vice on the bench rather than in the vehicle

You really want to get the whole thing, I had a similar problem with the Hall sender on our mk2 polo. It started and ran fine but then cut out about 5 minutes into every journey and wouldn't restart for a good hour or so. It turned out (after much trial and error/investigation) that the plastic guard in the hall sender has disintegrated and once warm was managing to block the pulse signal. A problem with the Hall sender can be more than just a bad wiring connection!

By the way, they're bloomin fiddly to put back together!

I have some pics of the dizzy appart if your interested let me know and I'll post them

Here's a circuit diagram showing how the Hall sender connects to the ignition control unit. If you wire in a supply & LED as shown you can test the sender. You need to take the dizzie off the engine and turn it by hand. As you turn it the LED should switch on and off. Because the wires inside the dizzie are such a light gauge it's easy for them to break up inside the insulation or at a joints at each end.

An interesting way of testing im going to try that

the thing is it may work when he is testing it but if the plug or wires are a bit intemittant it could fail later
sounds like thats the diagnosis from the garage

Not all vans have the idle stabilisation plug and socket so i guess you would need to connect at the ecu connector in that case.

Not all vans have the idle stabilisation plug and socket so i guess you would need to connect at the ecu connector in that case.

You can test at the plug on the dizzie. I drew the rest of the circuit just in case I needed to trouble shoot further down the line. Here's a link to testing the same switch used by BMW on their bikes.

http://www.ebbo.org/2av54.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

BOXY wrote:

Not all vans have the idle stabilisation plug and socket so i guess you would need to connect at the ecu connector in that case.

You can test at the plug on the dizzie. I drew the rest of the circuit just in case I needed to trouble shoot further down the line. Here's a link to testing the same switch used by BMW on their bikes.

http://www.ebbo.org/2av54.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

nice !
Bookmarked that

thanks for your help think i'll get whole part lol
so is anyone selling a hall sender ?
VW Type 25 1987

Brickwerks sell them

kevtherev wrote:Brickwerks sell them

Cant see them on the webshop?

Thanks for your help , it cut out again so got RAC out and they said that my hall sender is fine thats
not the problem they said i need a new fuel pump :S lol so i'll get one and see what happens

Was it diagnosed with an ignition problem