Club 80-90 Forums

Hiya, ive had a few probs with the van running, itl start but then die, wont hold idle, give it gas and it dies, and will list what I've done so far:
Replaced the carbs all cleaned out incl the inlet gauze filter which was filthy,
Pull down unit is fine
Manifold isnt leaking
Carb isnt leaking air
Plugs are black (too rich but I havent touched the mixture screw.

Today ive checked and changed the fuel pump, the pump rod was 100mm
Could the brake servo hose prevent it from running and if so will any suitable hose do or are they
specific?
wondering if it has a brain that could be faulty?
Been at this for over a week and its doin my head in ?!
Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Does it die when cold or warm or both?

Black plugs are meaningless on a cold engine

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 6#p7959766" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

did you change the accelerator pump ?
You were also looking for a new carb any luck?

It dies once the choke starts to open and if I throttle it it dies, yeah got another carb and its all gleaming, came off a running van, im texting the guy I got it from and he's giving advice as well bc its a bit baffling, going outside now to check the auto choke to see if its getting power, apparently if I turn the van on then pull the wire it should click if its working, going to do that now,update in 15 mins

Choke heater doesnt click but the bypass air cut off valve does when you reconnect it with ignition on
if thats faulty then it will stall off choke

soulfly71 wrote: Could the brake servo hose prevent it from running and if so will any suitable hose do or are they
specific?

Yes it could stall a warm engine if it is leaking air in
the hose is a vacuum hose so it has to be a non collapse type

Sorry, I meant theauto valve cut off, thats getting power bc its clicking when touching the connection to it, how do I check if the servo hose is leaking bc it doesnt look gubbed?!

soulfly71 wrote:Sorry, I meant theauto valve cut off, thats getting power bc its clicking when touching the connection to it, how do I check if the servo hose is leaking bc it doesnt look gubbed?!

remove it and fill it with water...mine was like a watering can

You could disconnect it and bung it up the manufold and see if it makes a difference
dont drive it obviously or you will have no servo brakes

Il get on it right now! Also, the inlet manifold was a bit wet but id put that down to too much fuel and it was a bit leaky bc id thought overfuelling meant loads of fuel going into the manifold and it seeping thru the gasket?! Gonna replac e those 2mrwin daylight

You could disconnect it and bung it up the manifold

DOH! why dint I think of that!

Well now, im no weakling but I could NOT get the brake servo hose off so, like all good mechanics its been wrapped (professionally) with super super Gaffa tape!!
Taken off the inlet manifold bolts and thats it for tonight! Been at it since noon, will replace the gaskets 2mrw and see if it makes ANY difference, update onc e thats done!

Well, ive got the van running again, it goes like this:
Put a new Carb on it after a thorough clean out with carb cleaner, with a new middle gasket.
Still wasnt for starting, now thinking its the Vac Advance gone duff bc i could suck on the Vac pipe for ages.
Replaced the Vac Advance unit, dead easy to do,
Remove the Two Flatblade srews holding the Vac unit onto the Dissy first.
Dissy cap off,
Rotor arm off,
Circlip on the top off,
Then using two screwdrivers inserted into the Vanes square holes either side i pried the Vane off, it can be a bit tough to get off if your nervous like i was about wrecking it,
Once its off there's another circlip to take off with fine a circlip remover, careful not to lose the Drift Key/small pin as i did!
I then used a 1.5mm drill bit instead, i cut the shaft end off to the required length, please note the original Height of the original Drift pin before removing the 2nd circlip or the Drift might come out with it and be lost easily.
Once the circlips and drift are out you should be able to simply wiggle the Vac unit off the arm, its quite simple.
Fitting is the reverse sequence.
Once all that was done, key in the ignition and it fired first turn.
Timing was out so manually set the timing to 5degrees before TDC as per Haynes, ive heard 7deg is good but waiting on a timing light to set it and the carb mixture right, apart from that it runs good, bit down on power but the timing gun should help rectifiy that.
Hope this helps people with carb problems to check all the vac pipes as this will help resolve some issues.
Thanks for all the help and advice from everyone, IL BE BACK!! Lol