Club 80-90 Forums

Hi All,

Just fitted a new starter motor. Is it possible/safe to put a join in the heavy gauge cable that goes straight to the battery or should I replace the full cable? The end of the cable had to be cut back to remove corrosion and now it is going to be a bit of a stretch to get it to reach the connector stud on the Starter motor, and I don't want to have it under tension.

thanks in advance,
Ben

What you could do, us to fit a battery isolation switch. There for adding an extra cable and gaining the length you need
Also adding security against theft.

Or you could fit a copper bar shaped to fit down the side of the starter then connect the cable.
Don't forget to insulate it you could use heat shrink..

rich broom wrote:What you could do, us to fit a battery isolation switch. There for adding an extra cable and gaining the length you need
Also adding security against theft.

Isolation switch wil likely melt with starting currents don't do it

Assuming you have the right heavy duty m8 ring terminals and crimp gun ( which you need anyway) then I would join the extra cable with a ring on each side and a short m8 bolt and nut (pref stainless) then sleeve with heatshrink prefereably twice

I would load the wirecand crimp with vaseline before crimping to keep the water out

itchyfeet wrote:

rich broom wrote:What you could do, us to fit a battery isolation switch. There for adding an extra cable and gaining the length you need
Also adding security against theft.

Isolation switch wil likely melt with starting currents don't do it

Assuming you have the right heavy duty m8 ring terminals and crimp gun ( which you need anyway) then I would join the extra cable with a ring on each side and a short m8 bolt and nut (pref stainless) then sleeve with heatshrink prefereably twice

I would load the wirecand crimp with vaseline before crimping to keep the water out

Won't melt if you use a proper one. Used them on competition vehicles for years.

The Lucas one is 1500 amps max. Continuous 150 amp.
So it will probably start the qe2

rich broom wrote:The Lucas one is 1500 amps max. Continuous 150 amp.
So it will probably start the qe2

Ok i stand corrected perhaps you could get a link up for that one because the cheapo ones you can get are probably not up to the job

Anyway same solution really m8 crimps on extension cable and a bolt or lucas isolation switch ( which slso needs mounting in a sutible position or enclosure)

I use a 500A isolation switch on my boat - never had it melt yet! 2 x 110 Ah batteries run through it for starting and electrics.

must be cheaper to buy a new cable, surely?.. and easier, and quicker..

That is what I would do also.

Is it a fuel-tank-out job to get a new starter cable to the battery?
(Pretty sure that Haynes says that it is - but then Haynes says a lot of things that don't necessarily turn out to be true!)

If you extend then it must be a 100% perfect to carry cranking load....I think if I was doing it I would use a Butt splice Joint but rather than crimping I would heat it up with a blow torch and melt a load of solder into it...Same for the battery terming as I don't rate those 'grub screw' type ends where screws tighten onto the cable...I would much rather turn it into a solid joint with a whole lot of solder.

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Martin

Isn't your battery next to the engine?
Just fit a new cable.
Or if it's the low current one from ignition switch just solder a new piece of cable in.

Isn't your battery next to the engine?
If it's just the low current cable from ignition switch, just extend it.

Looks like a 2.0l Air Cooled petrol & not a Diesel which has a rear mounted battery..it's a blooming long run and very expensive cable.


Martin