Club 80-90 Forums

hi guys doing the rear trailing arm bushes but having trouble removing the rear hub nut any ideas much appreciated as need to get sorted asap cheers marc

I think it is done with a scaffold pole and a fat bloke?

Correct.
It's got 480nm of torque when tightened correctly.

Or ... if you have a new hub nut (not a bad idea anyway, and they're cheap enough), cut the old one off carefully with a slitting disc on a grinder. Cut a slot as close as you can across one side of the nut, without damaging the threads on the driveshaft, then get a sharp cold chisel and lump hammer and whack the nut anti-clockwise. It will open up and come of the shaft easily. 15 mins work, rather than an afternoon of swearing, broken tools and a search around the neighbourhood for the fattest bloke you can find. Just make sure you remember to take out the split pin first. Clean up the threads before the new nut goes on, and Bob's your proverbial father's brother.

http://www.machine7.com/product.php?xProd=3349" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have a socket welded to a length of box section for removing them. It's not let me down yet.

Yeah I have one like that. Used a scaffold pole and broke my breaker bar. Got a new breaker bar and still won't come off. There were two of us jumping on it. Going round to a commercial truck repair place soon to have it blown off by one of their pneumatic impact wrenches.

I followed Hacksawbob's 'smacker' link above, and then did a bit of Googling. I came across a device variously called a 'Torquemeister' or a 'Mr Torque' (see here or here). These devices provide about a 9x mechanical advantage so that the very high torque needed for the hub nut can be achieved even with a 3/8" socket set. Unfortunately they seem to be made for the Beetle's 36mm hub nut, and the only mention I could see of one that would suit our 46mm hub nuts seemed to involve welding a 36mm nut to a cut down 46mm socket.

Has anyone come across such a device that's made for a 46mm hub nut?

Use a 3/4" torque multiplier with any size socket you like. This one supplies 2400Nm - lots of grunt for under 40 quid.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BERGEN-HGV-Tr ... 1195039650

Wychall wrote:Use a 3/4" torque multiplier with any size socket you like. This one supplies 2400Nm - lots of grunt for under 40 quid.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BERGEN-HGV-Tr ... 1195039650

That looks like a pretty useful tool. I couldn't figure out how it might work, so I found a video of it here. I wonder how accurate the torque ratio is - can it be used to tighten the hub nuts accurately? With a ratio of 64:1, a 1ft-lb error on your torque wrench would be a 64ft-lb error at the hub nut. I suppose it'll be at least as accurate as 'a scaffold bar and a fat bloke' though