Club 80-90 Forums

Firstly thank you to everybody who advised me regarding my engine removal, now I have a couple of more questions if I may.

After removing the cylinder head the problem was as I suspected (a snapped cylinder head stud), I have now managed to remove the stud and im now ready to start putting it all back together.

The cylinder head seal appears to be in good condition with no cracks etc, is it ok to re-use or would it be better to change this for a new one.

Also are there any tips on re-assembling to ensure I make no silly mistakes. Its the first time I have attempted anything like this and have little more than enthusiasm and a Haynes manual to get me through

Many thanks

Gary

Always use new gaskets throughout. Always. Really, always.

colinthefox wrote:Always use new gaskets throughout. Always. Really, always.

I thought as much to be honest, didn't fancy going to all this trouble and then having problems caused by a used cylinder head seal

Thanks for that

presumably it is also best to renew the cylinder head liner seal and the barrel liner to head gasket (the ones between the cylinder heads and barrels)????

sorry for all the questions but I keep finding more things to ask whilst pricing up the parts.

Do I need the genuine vw sealant for the head bolts..... this one> http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Sea ... tartRow=16" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

or can I just buy one from a motor factors. Again, if it needs this one then I would rather use the proper sealant then have problems in the future

It is best to use that for the studs,
have a look at http://www.vwbusshop.de/en_GB" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
the delivery is expensive, but parts are cheaper and you can buy individual gaskets like the green ones for the liners,
its cheaper than the full gasket set. (unless you need full set)
don't forget sealing rings that go between cylinder head and barrels and also a tube of reinzosil for the water jackets.
I have ordered from here before and were very good.

My advice is just order the gasket set rather than individuals
By the time you have bought single seals and the dirko I doubt you will save unless you sart reusing gaskets

itchyfeet wrote:My advice is just order the gasket set rather than individuals
By the time you have bought single seals and the dirko I doubt you will save unless you sart reusing gaskets

Yep, as above

Brickwerks sell full or 1 side gasket sets which include the correct sealants (the grey for the water jacket seals and the yellow for the stud nuts) and also the head studs.

Ian

Thanks for the help guys. Just tried to order the gasket kit from Brickwerks (I always try to use them where possible) but unfortunately it was out of stock. Going to send them an email to see when they anticipate new stock, if its not going to be anytime soon then I will buy the similar kit from heritage. Im assuming it is the same quality???

Give elring uk a call if they won't sell direct they will be able to give you a local company who can order it for you
I did that a few years ago


http://www.elringparts.co.uk/contact-us/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Part number for one side is 692.664
Come back and let us know if you do

just checked brickwerks and the single head gasket set is in stock....

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t ... 3-wbx.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

have you taken both heads off? your post doesn't read that way.

They are in stock now, just got a reply from brickwerks, they must have updated their website. Im going to order it all tonight.

Im only doing one side. There is only one snapped stud and the engine was running so sweet before I don't want to do anymore than I need to. I will also be ordering an extra inlet manifold gasket and exhaust gasket for the other side.

Can't wait to get him up and running again

Haynes only shows dirko on one side of the water jacket seal
That may be ok for a brand new engine but once the water jacket is a bit corroded then I think it needs dirko both sides
Can't actually get it on the seal on the jacket side so apply it to the jacket

Also can reccomend plenty of rags in the holes to the crankcase when fitting the gudgeon pin circlips, if you loose one in the crankcase you will have a hard job getting it out

Did you already remove pistons and liners?

Some pics here
http://s1145.photobucket.com/user/paul_ ... LPG_Engine" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

cheers for the info, to be honest I was going to use it on both sides of the jacket anyway. Tonight I have removed the liners and replaced all the seals. I have also cleaned the head so I a can fit the new jacket. I wasn't planning on removing the pistons. To be honest I wasn't aware you had to. I should have researched a little bit more first though as I had a bit of a problem. Whist refitting the liner over the pistons the bottom piston ring broke , luckily nothing went into the engine though. How easy is it to remove the pistons?? I have left my Haynes manual up the garage so cant really look until tomorrow. Obviously it would be a lot easier fitting the rings if I can remove the pistons

cheers again

If you had taken the liners and pistons off together you wouldn't have broken the rings
You can slide the liner up just enough to access the gudgeon pins then you need straight and right angle circlip pliers to remove the circlips
Gungeon pins can be tight but usually come out by a length of m8 stud with a nut on the end filed down to just fit through, a large socket and nut on the other end acts as a slide hammer

I suggest you remove them fit new rings and replace the liners on the pistons then replace assembled
Not done it myself but I'm told you need to glaze bust to get the new rings to bed in