Club 80-90 Forums

Need a bit off advice-i was asked to look at a 2.0 Aircooled twin carb camper belonging to a family member.Van starts ok and after about 5 mins idles fine however it has a serious lack of power-as in 30mph top end !,also spitting back through carb on RHS engine,the local garage were supposed to have rebuilt the carbs a few weeks ago-but judging by the crud/dirt around i'm doubting this.Incidentally whilst checking the timing no 1 plug lead came off with no change in engine note...as did no 2 with same result.I'm compression testing in a few days but in the meantime anyone got any ideas-words off wisdom?
As an afterthought is there anyway of checking the stop solanoid on the carb?,also i noticed there's no vac advance to this carb-only the left side has one,is this correct?.

When my van started popping back it was a recessing valve seat. A new head fixed it. Your compression check will confirm, the reading will be low to zero on the offending pot(s). Take off the rocker covers and see if all the adjusters look about the same. Has anyone tried setting the tappets without knowing how to do it?
Yes, one vac line from the left hand carb, the other off the tee on the airbox.

A basic check of all the solenoids on the carbs is: Switch on ignition, pull off spade connect on solenoid, then touch it back onto the spade, the solenoid should click.

Thanks boxy for your info-with regard to the tappets no one has touched them-in fact the van was running fine till about 6 weeks ago and on route up from london it started pulling back and popping getting slower and slower.Its been at the local garage since and various theory's as to what the problem is have been bandied about-including the timing gear to the camshaft being damaged/out......the engine starts first turn and runs but there's an audible popping/spitting via right hand carb and also an audiable flat note-along with total lack off power.I asked about the vac pipes as when i looked 2 days ago both outlets on the dizzy were linked together via t piece to the air box,neither carb connected or the pipe from the inlet manifold,Using haynes manual and remembering what my little bruvs engine was i re-plumbed it. The air box on this one only has 2 connections-whats the correct routing for the vac pipes?-or hows yours plumbed??,after hunting around on here i am starting to think valves etc,i'll update tommorow.

Hello.

Do you mean like this..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qayyc9Z4E0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

and then this..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsfo5ATgBp0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

This is the current beast:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3nqUWst2XRo" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It only takes a few seconds for a madman to totally screw the carb settings....


And hours to get them right again...

Cordialement,

Right thanks for replys again guys-i'll watch the utube vids in a bit,compression readings are 15bar cylinder 1 and 13 to 13.5 bar on the rest.Which seems to be pointing to the engine being ok-whats anyone else think?,i'm still thinking its a fuel issue for some reason-gut feeling?.I've got the right carb on the bench for a clean up and quick inspection,solex 32-34 PDSIT-3,anything i should look out for or known issues?-whats the machined hole half way down the outside off the throttle body for?

the machined hole half way down the outside off the throttle body for

A photo would help. If it's a threaded hole there should be a brass blanking screw in it. If you're lucky it might still be bouncing around on top the inlet manifold.

Ignore the arrow on this picture, where is the hole?

Hiya boxy-sorry for the delay,my new phone wont interface with the puta!,and cant figure how to send pics direct yet...ok this machined hole-on the right hand carb its on the opposite side of the throttle body to the blanked off vac inlet.its occured to me if it was the left hand carb it would be the vac pipe connection-possibly?.Picking your brains again the idle bypass valve/solanoid ive noticed is loose in the housing,its got ptfe wrapped around the threads but still wobbles a bit-could this be pulling air into the mixture for the right carb do you think?-if i'm understanding the haynes manual correct the left carb supplies the correct air/fuel mix to the right side via the pipes at the rear of the engine-is this correct?,cause i'm thinking extra air would cause it to run lean/weak?.As i've read a fair bit now on the lifters siezing affecting the valves-although the compressions seem ok-if i pop off the rocker cover i should be able to check them by turnong the engine over-correct?
stu

I'm not sure where the hole is that you're talking about. There should be a brass screw that holds the venturi in place. The screw on mine has fallen out once and ended up sitting on top of the inlet manifold. I fitted it back with a dab of stud lock and it's stayed in place since.
The solenoid should certainly be an air-tight fit. You might be able to bodge it back in place with a decent stud lock or some liquid metal. Because the metal of the carb body & the thread on the solenoid are relatively soft any over-tightening is going to strip the threads.

Ok an update...i refitted the carb yesterday and using a couple off cable ties and some instant gasket managed to pull the bypass valve tight.Engine fired first turn and ran a lot better,by fiddling with the mixture/idle screws a bit it responds nicely now and on the test drive actually pulled fairly well.It kinda points me into the thought that it is a fueling issue and that the carbs are probably both ready for a decent overhaull-so thats the next step.Incidently this hole i keep going on about-found one on the left hand carb as well-going to photo it thurs and post it so you can see,tried blanking it off but makes no differance to running though.I was told yesterday that this popping/kangerooing has been an ongoing issue for about 6 months now-not just in the last 4 weeks as i was first told,Gower and Lee do rebuild kits dont they?