Club 80-90 Forums

I've got a panel convection heater/radiator that has stopped working. I think it is the thermostat that has broken as there is nothing else in there that would go pop.

It has the following markings on the bottom where the two spade connections are:
T24
LC

and the following on the cap/top
A/
075-10
0815

it looks very similar to the T24 on this page http://www.lightcountry.com/thermostat.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;



Any idea where I can get a replacement one from??

Have you checked the continuity across the terminals - if it is connected that isn't at fault.
Available all over ebay.

(75 degrees cut out)

I haven't checked the continuity - shall do this evening. Thanks for the cut out temp info.

That looks like a thermal fuse to me,and it will " blow " if the temperature exceeds the max designed amount, the actual thermostat may well be somewhere else, it is possible that the Thermal fuse has just failed ( I have these inside Photocopiers that fail ) but it is also possible that it has done its job and protected the rad from overheating due to the thermostat malfunctioning . As suggested check for continuity , I have heard that they can be reset by putting in the freezer.... personally I would NOT do this, to me they are a one operation component ( others do have a reset button on top ) .

Wrong - they are automatic reset, manual reset have the button. It is a thermal cutout not a thermal fuse. I suggest that if you don't know what you are talking about keep quiet especially when dealing with mains voltages. Read the spec. sheet! (Thermostat T24 Series)

Do you have the make & model of the heater?

Oldiebut goodie wrote:Wrong - they are automatic reset, manual reset have the button. It is a thermal cutout not a thermal fuse. I suggest that if you don't know what you are talking about keep quiet especially when dealing with mains voltages. Read the spec. sheet! (Thermostat T24 Series)

it looks very similar to the T24 on this page http://www.lightcountry.com/thermostat.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
[/quote]


wow, I am genuinely surprised and annoyed at your response Oldie but goodie.... He stated that it looks similar too .... I stated that to me it looked like a thermal fuse... that was my opinion ....

I work with 240v everyday for my job, I am factory trained by 5 manufactures , I check and replace thermal fusses looking JUST like that one regularly.

I frequent this site and offer freely my advice and opinions , is that not the purpose of this forum ? there are other places on the internet where advice from " professionals" can be payed for ...

now If I had said that this was definitely beyond doubt a thermal fuse and I was wrong then I am happy to accept that, but telling me to keep quite is plain rude.

If you have a problem with me then please use the PM function, I am happy to discus with you in private this further.

Errrr.... marked T24!
Nuff said.
As said read the spec sheet - don't guess.

If yours has gone - replacement available here 95p, shipping £3.95!!!! http://www.sinolec.co.uk/thermal-fuses- ... losed.html

The heater looks similar to this

http://www.wilko.com/heaters/dimplex-dx ... vt/gd00013" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It has a switch and a matrix the live wire along one panel with the aforementioned part in between

I have struggled to find an online supplier of Glen Dimplex spares but according to their website local electrical wholesalers may be able to help you get the right part. It may be worth giving some in your local area a call if you are reluctant to try oldiebut goodie's link

Oldiebut goodie wrote: It is a thermal cutout not a thermal fuse

As a matter of genuine interest, what is the difference?

I would like to apologise to Louey for my post earlier offering my opinion, I clearly was wrong and did not fully read the link to his description, ( I was reading on my phone , not a valid excuse I know )

In my defence I was just trying to help, I work with "thermal fuses" a lot, infact today I have had case to replace one... pictured .This particular one is a resettable type.








as you can see it does look like the part that you put up, hence why I said " it looks to me like a thermal fuse" in the world I work in it is purely a thermal fuse, not the thermistor also, that is pictured to the left . I would not know how to check the operation of yours mearly by doing a continuity test as OBG suggests , I would recommend a OHM meter test for a thermistor and a continuity test for the thermal fuse. But for absolute clarity, I am not a qualified convector heater engineer, so I can not offer any advice atall.

Again I apologise as I should have made sure I was 100% correct before offering any advice, it was a genuine mistake and lesson learned, maybe a valuable lesson for anyone on this forum offering up their opinion, as OBG suggests I will certainly "keep quite" in the future, and would advise everyone else to do the same .

Jeff J wrote:

Oldiebut goodie wrote: It is a thermal cutout not a thermal fuse

As a matter of genuine interest, what is the difference?

A thermal fuse "blows" (= open circuit) when it gets to it's pre-set value. Some just "blow" and have to be replaced, some have a re-set button on them. They are usually used as a safety device to cut off the power in the event of summat overheating, for fire prevention.

A thermal cut out is usually a bi-metallic strip that remains "closed" and conducts current up to the point where, at it's pre-set temperature, the bi-metallic strip bends due to the heat and "opens" the circuit. On cooling down, the bi-metallic strip goes back to it's usual position, "closing" the circuit again. They are commonly used in simple thermostats in heating units of many types.

From the above description it is fairly easy to figure that one can test them with a meter. A thermal fuse will show "open circuit" if it is cold and faulty (ie "blown") or continuity (ie zero ohms) if it is working.

A thermal cut out should show full continuity (ie zero ohms) when cold (as per what OBG says above), but will jump to "open circuit" (ie infinite ohms) when it is above it's designated temperature, but on cooling down, will suddenly go back to zero ohms. You can test these using a multimeter and some boiling water.

Hope that helps.

E D I T = Some (rarer) thermal cut outs are "normally open" and work exactly the opposite way around when testing as above.

Thermal fuses tend to be used in sneaky applications like in a module that isn't easily dismantable to give manufacturers/service centres the chance to say 'new unit needed mate' in my experience. Newlec extractor fans do this - there is a thermal fuse on top of the windings and then covered over - £50+ for a new fan or £2 for a new fuse. Quick test tells you that the windings are gone but if you know to look for that fuse it is a cheap fix! There are auto resetting devices that would work exactly the same but they choose to use a single use fuse. The fuse seems to go when there is a very strong backdraught from the wind creating a heavier load on the motor, OK it protects it but poorly thought out application IMHO.