Club 80-90 Forums

Right, after a full gasket replacement and general tidy up, the engine is back in and I'm ready to instal the solex carbs I bought to replace the single weber the van came with. But I need help with the connections.
This is how far I've got today:


The carbs have got 3 connections on each one. On the left carb, I think number 3 is the fuel inlet, 2 is a vacuum connection and 1 maybe a balance pipe?


On the right hand carb, I think 3 is a vacuum pipe, 2 is the fuel inlet and 1 is a balance pipe? Number 3 is a smaller diameter than the number 2 pipe on the left carb. Why is that?


This is the dizzy I have. Which pipe do I use to connect to a carb (the weber used number 1), and which carb?


I'm thinking of connecting the brake pipe to the forward hole on the left intake here, is this right?


The rubbish instructions I have with the carbs say I should connect the balance pipe for the carbs to each other using a hole from each manifold, but if I did, what does that mean the pipes on the inside of each carb are for? (number 1's)

Finally, why is it the throttle mechanism works backwards? With it set up as is, I need to connect the cable round the back in order for it to open the carbs correctly ie you pull the lever towards the tailgate to open the butterflies:


Any help/advice appreciated

Thanks

Paul

Hi,
I had the same problems with my carbs, Solex Brosal from CB perf.
I will try to post some pictures later that will help as I had problems with connecting the vacuum pipes to the distributor; some of my brass outlets/connections have rubber caps on to blank them off.

Regards

Pete

Cheers Pete.....they are the same carbs as mine and also from CB performance

Hi,
I have just been looking through my photos and the carbs on my van are fitted the other way round i.e the accelerator pump bit is on the outside not the inside but that should not be a problem.
Ref the top picture of your LH carb, 3 is the fuel in, 1 is a vent I think but on mine they are capped off with a rubber bung & 2 goes to the outer distributor vac connection 1. If you look one of the distributors vac connection is bigger than the other, the same on the carbs I think.
Ref the second picture of the RH carb the fuel is 2, connection 1 is capped off like yours, and I assume 3 will go to your distributor connection 2.
On my set up I retained the original VW manifolds so I still have the balence pipe that runs between the two manifolds, this has a vacuum tapping for the distrubutor 2.
The brake vacuum servo pipe goes as you have it in the last picture but there is another balence pipe that joins to the other manifold this is the original VW way.



Picture of my right carb using the original VW linkage as I have an auto box. Are you carbs fitted the wrong way round hence your linkage not working correctly??
My carbs were fitted by PO so I don't have any instruction; can you post a copy?? I tried to get a copy from CB and VW heritage but they could not help.


Picture of the LH carb showing the servo vacuum take off, this is the original VW pipes and manifold, please ignor the plumbing to the carb as it has changed since the picture was taken.

Also see this post from me some months back. http://www.justkampers.com/forum/viewto ... 5&t=188239" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Hope this helps?

the reason the throttle linkage works backwards is so you can use the carbs on a porsche 914 as the engine is mounted the other way round , if you need the rubber t piece to connect servo take of pipe to carb i have brand new genuine vw part, it also looks like you have the carbs on the wrong way round swap them over so the petrol inlets are then on the inside of the carb not the outside

Thanks for both your help, that's made things a lot clearer! I did think the carbs would be better the other way round, but that's what the instructions said. I'll change them round tonight. Faggie, I'll have that tee piece off you please (I'll sort it when I see you).

As I was a bit bored last night I searched the web for instructions/informatio/diagrams of the Solex Brosol carbs and found only a few references and very little info.
Pretty poor of CB to provide such limited info on a product they sell.
I have still to work out if connection 1 on the top picture of your carbs should be vented or capped off, I assume it vents the top of the float chanber. Any ideas anybody??

Hello,

Nr 3 is for the emissions sensor.. charcoal filter.... Californian spec.... block it off..

Cordialement,

Sarren,
As you are the man in the know on Aircooled matters What is connection 3 for, the one shown with a rubber cap on it??

Thanks for your help.

Right, thanks to all you fine chaps for helping so far. Unfortunately I couldn't work on the van for a while due to my GF being very ill, but all is good now, so back on it!

I just wanted to check I've interpreted the advice correctly. This is my setup now:

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So, I have the vac retard connected to the right hand carb (big pipe on carb body) and the vac advance on the dizzy blocked off with the connection on the left carb blocked too (small pipe). As you can see I've got the filters off whilst I set the carbs and timing this weekend and I've put the breather from the engine into the filter for the right carb.

Can someone please tell me if I've got this right now. I can't find any info on these Borsal Solex 32/34 PDSIT carbs.

Thanks in advance

Paul

Hello,

paulandchez wrote: This is my setup now:

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So, I have the vac retard connected to the right hand carb (big pipe on carb body) and the vac advance on the dizzy blocked off with the connection on the left carb blocked too (small pipe). As you can see I've got the filters off whilst I set the carbs and timing this weekend and I've put the breather from the engine into the filter for the right carb.

Can someone please tell me if I've got this right now. I can't find any info on these Borsal Solex 32/34 PDSIT carbs.

Thanks in advance

Paul

You have got the makings of a good set up there..

The advantage you have is that (being based on a older version..used on late bays)..you have 2 vacuum gauge pipes!!



While you will get there with the old ignition..

If you fit an SVDA like this..



with your old electronic coil..

Then you will have 1 vacuum pipe from the carb to the distributor..

which is the advance..

You will be setting your ignition at about 8 degrees DTDC.

(for best results do not use a whole length of rubber vacuum tube.. but rather 2 ends and a semi rigid plastic vacuum line between)

By all means vent your crankcase pressure into an air filter (spigot type)..but use proper elbows to make job neat..

Like this..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140888313466? ... 1423.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If the carbs are the same height as the original Solex.. then you can use 'pancake' Empi style air filters..making up a collar to adapt..

the advantage being that this will (just) fit under the engine hatch..

Can we have some more photos .. of the sides of the carbs and inlet manifolds..please

Cordialement,

Thanks Sarran!

Here's some more pics. This is the right hand carb with the vac retard connected:

Here's the left carb with the vac connection blocked off:


And here's a closer view of the dizzy:


I've had a play with the timing today and with the vac retard disconnected, it's at 8 BTDC, but if you look at the dizzy, No.1 lead is now the top right lead. Does this mean I need to swap all the leads round to make it the bottom right again?

I'll have a look at those SVDA's you've suggested too, but if I can get the setup as is working, I can then get MOT etc done ASAP!
Any more help would be appreciated

Hello,

A picture.. or even several tell all..

Ok, so these are Brazilian copy carbs

Like on the 'old' type 3 1600, and early 'late' bays..

You will have to set the idle mixture by hand.. a guess at 2 1/2 turns out..

Right.. for the distributor..

Where the rotor arm points to at TDC is nr 1 cylinder..

Clockwise 1432..

You will need to strobe at 800 rpm.. vacuum to carb blanked off.. 8 deg btdc..

I love the bedspring attached to the wongy flaps bar..

Cordialement..

Haha thanks mate. It's a temp fix to get me running

So if I turn the engine by hand till the timing mark lines up with tdc on the scale, then look at the rotor arm, that will be where no1 lead should be yes?

I've already set both mixtures to 2 1/2 turns for now. I'll check the rotor position and let you know

Thanks

Paul