Club 80-90 Forums

hi ,

did my TDI / AFN conversion last year , and ever since i have done it i have always had this problem , basically i dont have any power after starting up ,
it wont rev 1500/2000rpm max... untill i hold my foot down for 2-3 seconds , then it revs 3000rpm + , then its fine , runs fine , revs fine..

now turn ignition off , it happens again . so it is defo ECU related.

no fault codes

i have all my brake/clutch switches that come on donor car taped closed ( is that a problem ? , never got around to mounting them on pedals yet ? )

so its like the car is in limp home mode , or maybe something like cruise control is cutting in and trying to slow engine down ? but reving it hard overrides it ?

did try lots of things months ago .. but left it .. as i just rev it everytime .. but thought its time to take another look at the problem .. so ... any advice anyone ?

regards

Matt

If you have no functioning brake signal to the ECU, you'll get no engine braking (fuel shutoff) assistance when you want to slow down. I don't know how bad the effect on drivability would be, I don't particularly want to try it. As regards your problem, you need to get VAGCOM on there and check each ECU input/output is within normal parameters, and deal with it accordingly. I don't see what cruise control might have to do with it, you'd have to (a) have it fitted (b) switched on, and (c) be moving at 30mph+ for it to be doing anything.

PS. For a start download the free version (VCDS Lite) and use a cheap Ebay cable. Lots of good TDI resources out there to help, if you look. eg. Rosstech wiki, Tdiclub, Myturbodiesel.

When you say brake and clutch switches are taped closed, am I right in saying they are wired into the loom and both switches are taped with the plungers fully depressed?

ELVIS wrote:When you say brake and clutch switches are taped closed, am I right in saying they are wired into the loom and both switches are taped with the plungers fully depressed?

correct ,yes bit of a bodge .. lol

Do you have a spare brake and clutch switch you could try?

lloydy wrote:Do you have a spare brake and clutch switch you could try?

have tried by passing them ( ie just joining wires up ) still same.

Matt

Wire brake switch to brake light circuit with relay so it works as it should.

dbug wrote:Wire brake switch to brake light circuit with relay so it works as it should.

will do , but how would that effect my problem ? is if it was wired up properly surely it would still start like it does now ?

unless you have to start these engines with your foot on the brake ?

16vmini wrote:

ELVIS wrote:When you say brake and clutch switches are taped closed, am I right in saying they are wired into the loom and both switches are taped with the plungers fully depressed?

correct ,yes bit of a bodge .. lol

In normal position the brake switch, once set, is left 'out'/open/not taped down/not depressed as it cuts the fuelling if depressed. When you push the brake pedal it pushes switch in/ down which if I read it right is the way you have it permanently taped.

I *think* the clutch pedal switch being fully depressed only affects the cruise control.

Make sense?

When I bought my 1z conversion the wiring was initially bodged and the switches were left in the engine bay NOT taped down and it worked.

Pull the tape off of them maybe and see what happens? Nowt to lose except two mins of your life/sanity

I am sure syncroandy will be along soon to give the in depth/tech answer

ok will try , happy to give anything a go

my understanding , and from what i remember is that all the switches where above the pedals , so all switches are closed when all pedals are up ...

but what the heck ..

Matt

Matt

Apology, you're right

They are hung from above,so are depressed in driving/ no brake or clutch position, double

Only thng I can think of is maybe they HAVE to be calibrated first, you know when you set the extended length?

Dunno, I'll shut up now as I am a joey!

100% sure the ones on my 1Z were not taped down though when I bought it.

Cheers Elvis but I've nowt more to add really. The OP needs to get VCDS on there to see whats really going on. I'm not into speculation..

have ordered up a cable , will see if i can get VCDS Lite to work . see what it says and go from there.

Matt

error i am getting :

Address 01: Engine Labels: 028-906-021-AHU.LBL
Controller: 028 906 021 CG
Component: 1,9l R4 EDC 00SG 0829
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 00020
VCID: 56DF055BA11F
1 Fault Found:
00522 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent

now , i have scan gauge in , and this does give a temp reading , but allways low ,, but does go up and down if you know what i mean

i also was told about this error just after i changed engine , so i bought a new sensor from VW for 30 quid and replaced.

so i am still getting this , so need to track it down ...

is this causing it to start in limp home mode ?

Matt

for the temps reading low, you most likely need to replace the coolant stat. I guess you didn't do this in your weekend engine swap? For the code its throwing, i guess check the connections. It shouldnt put you in limp mode, if its reading low the ECU will overfuel so you won't get the best economy. One little test you could do is pull the plug of the sensor and turn the ignition on to set the glow plugs off. With the sensor unplugged the ECU brings the gplugs on for maximum duration, which you'll see by looking at your gplug light (should be on for 20 secs) At least this will prove the sensor is wired right.
One other thing is if the code was never cleared from the previous fault it will still be there now. So you may not actually have a fault with the sensor... From memory, you cant clear the fault with the free vcds. I have the paid version here and it works a lot better than the free one. Happy for you to pop over and plug in.. Aslo have a spare coolant sender you can try