Club 80-90 Forums

Hi

Just bought my first VW
1987 1.9 petrol T25

Have been looking around the site and hoping you all could assist

Lots of little jobs to do

The first is the blowing exhaust, which would as I have read on the forum would effect the running of the engine
It looks like at some time the "cast knuckle" has been removed. to have what looks like a new back box fitted but when re joining the flanges havent met so a rather hard paste has been used to fill the gap (gap is a 45 degree wedge)no gap to about 3mm gap out of which a small part has blown out
The paste has been spread around the bolts and flanges

Do I try to separate the knuckle and pipes to try and reset or fill the small gap which has blown out with jb weld

Ok with spanners just don't want to open a can of worms

Your advice would be greatly received

Does anybody know of a good mechanic in the southend on sea area

Thanks

Watchman wrote:Hi

Just bought my first VW
1987 1.9 petrol T25

Hi and welcome to here

Watchman wrote:Have been looking around the site and hoping you all could assist

We can, and will

Watchman wrote:Lots of little jobs to do

Aye, all normal so far then

Watchman wrote:The first is the blowing exhaust, which would as I have read on the forum would effect the running of the engine

Yep

Watchman wrote:It looks like at some time the "cast knuckle" has been removed. to have what looks like a new back box fitted but when re joining the flanges havent met so a rather hard paste has been used to fill the gap (gap is a 45 degree wedge)no gap to about 3mm gap out of which a small part has blown out
The paste has been spread around the bolts and flanges

Oh dear

Though this bit "to fill the gap (gap is a 45 degree wedge)no gap to about 3mm gap out of which a small part has blown out" doesn't read well, to my eyes at least

Watchman wrote:Do I try to separate the knuckle and pipes to try and reset or fill the small gap which has blown out with jb weld

If you are going to the trouble of sorting it out, I would say you would be far better doing it properly or you will just end up having to do it again, likely at a worse time, like in mid winter, or the day before your next mot "Bodging" is not to be recommended If you start bodging things your van will deteriorate, not get better

I would replace any exhaust parts that look at all dodgy. "Brickwerks" do all the parts separately and a renowned for good quality and service. Here is a = LINK

There sure can be a can of worms though with rusted up nuts, bolts and studs. You need to be careful, especially with the 8 on the heads exhaust ports (if you need to remove those that is, and it sounds like you won't). If you shear any of those ones you are looking at a tedious job drilling and tapping to remedy. By the way, if ever you do have to drill there, watch the depth as there is only a few extra mm before you are through the water jacket !

The trick to loosen rusty nuts etc is HEAT and lots of it. A blow torch is barely enough and also "spreads" the heat around a bit too much ( especially if used on the alloy head). A carefully used welding torch to heat the nut / bolts / studs up to just red is much better. Of course some releasing fluid is helpful, but please don't use WD40 etc, use the proper stuff = PlusGas.

Try and source nice new nuts / bolts / studs, to replace the old manky ones too

Watchman wrote:Does anybody know of a good mechanic in the southend on sea area

Type "garages" in the search box of our knowledge store ("wiki") linked to at the top of every page (as per THIS LINK) and see if there is one listed, or someone will be along in the morning perhaps with a suggestion.

Let us know how you get on and don't hesitate to ask stuff, better to ask than wreck summat

HI

Thanks for the reply

Is it not possible to remove the exhaust header nuts with a nut splitter or just grinding down the sides
Thus leaving the stud in tack and purchase new nuts

Sorry if this has been suggested before but I am new to VW, in fact cars in genreral as I am a motorbiker, but have used the above method to remove exhaust headers from bike

Watchman wrote: Is it not possible to remove the exhaust header nuts with a nut splitter or just grinding down the sides
Thus leaving the stud in tack and purchase new nuts

Yes, I think folks on here have done that when faced with a bad one / rounded off one. iirc (it's a while since I had to do one), you may come across Allen headed bolts too.

Quite often there's hadly any nut left to split and access is generally abysmal ... I took an exhaust off a 1.9 DG engine on the bench once and used every size socket from 14mm down to 9mm except 13 which is what it should've been Often having to hammer the sockets over what was left of a nut.

Use proper penetrating spray (i.e. graphite or teflon) apply direct heat or Freeze-it spray, anything you can do to crack the joint that's formed BEFORE you try to undo it normally as they'll often snap off like carrots and be a bstard to drill out

ian

Thanks for the responses

Took another look at the studs and bolts?? now I know why you cant use a nut splitter

Never heard of freeze it?? how does that work??

Looks like the exhaust on my T25 is going to have to be replaced, so will be looking for ever bit of advise I can get

Watchman wrote: Never heard of freeze it?? how does that work??

Looks like the exhaust on my T25 is going to have to be replaced, so will be looking for ever bit of advise I can get

This is a similar product ... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NORMFEST-SUPE ... _429wt_932

It creates a difference in the temperature between the nut and the stud, breaking the bond.

Best advice on a replacement exhaust is to save up and buy a stainless one from Brickwerks ... this is interchangeable with the standard 'late' style exhaust so you can swap it in piece by piece should you wish. http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t ... -2-1l.html

Other, cheaper options exist but they tend to be either bodges or dearer in the long run.

Hope this helps you.

Ian

Headers..?
'Manifolds'... this is a UK forum, let's keep it that way