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Disabling Buzzer of Doom...

Posted: 04 Oct 2006, 08:35
by johncelliot
I have tried all kinds of things to stop the buzzer going off, but to no avail. It still goes off after the van is well warmed up and I let off the accelerator after while. I would like to disable it so that it does not drive me insane on my up comming trip. I know there is not a problem with the engine, I just had it looked over by a mechanic who says it is in great condition. So, what is the best/easiest way to disable the buzzer in such a way that it would be easy to put back again later.

JCE

Posted: 04 Oct 2006, 08:54
by HarryMann
The Wiki tells you how to disable it.

Wiki on DOPWS

If you earth the low pressure sender that should do it (under the l/h head) or disconnect the high pressure one.

When you say the mechanic 'looked over' the engine, does this mean he attached an oil pressure guage, got the engine really hot and took the idle and > 2000 rpm oil pressures (as advised in the Wiki!)

Posted: 04 Oct 2006, 09:37
by johncelliot
I know that the mechanic (a VW specialist), checked the oil pressure and thought is was fine. I don't know if he measured at > 2krpm and at idle. But he does seem to have good knowledge of T25 engines so I do trust his judgement.

JCE

Disabling Buzzer of Doom...

Posted: 04 Oct 2006, 10:03
by OLD ONE
Why did you not ask him to do it for you? :lol:

Posted: 04 Oct 2006, 10:15
by HarryMann
John,

Where in the country are you? Location in profile, you might be next to someone who can help?

Re: Disabling Buzzer of Doom...

Posted: 04 Oct 2006, 10:23
by johncelliot
OLD ONE wrote:Why did you not ask him to do it for you? :lol:

To be honest, it never occured to me to have him do it!

Harry - I live in SE London. It would be great if someone would be willing to take a look at it before I disconnect it. I have Saturday and Sunday set aside for tinkering with the van if someone is available...

cheers,

JCE

Posted: 04 Oct 2006, 14:32
by ghost123uk
Tho Harry Mann is normally gives very good advice, this time I think he has got it wrong ( well I am sure he has, I am just being polite :) )

It is the brown wire that goes to the oil pressure sensor near the water pump that you earth.

If it still does it after that, the fault is likely to be the connector under the dash binnacle.

The sensor near the water pump really isn't as hard to change as folks say it is. You get at it from underneath and to the near side. I did mine a couple of months ago, only because the switch itself was leaking from the plastic bit where the wire goes on.

I would double check you hot oil pressure as, if all the connections are good, the buzzer of doom is just what it says it is :( :(

Posted: 04 Oct 2006, 15:57
by johncelliot
I do think there is something wrong in the sensor / wiring part of the system, but for argument sake...

If the sensors are acting correctly, and the oil pressure is dropping low when the engine is warm, what are the likely causes / solutions (I know that there is plenty of oil and no oil leaks)?

cheers

JCE

Posted: 04 Oct 2006, 20:35
by ghost123uk
Firstly, for your info and for anyone else reading this in the future, lets get one thing straight that so many people get wrong.

Oil pressure has nothing to do with low oil levels.
The only time oil pressure can be affected by low oil level is when there is virtually no oil left in the engine and the oil pick up pipe will then start to suck up air instead of oil. Not many of us let the oil level get that low !!

Oil pressure is simply a product of the oil pump sucking up oil and pumping it round the bearings in the engine. These bearings are a very close fit, so the oil cannot "pour" out of them, but seeps out, and the pump is trying to send it round faster than it can escape, hence the "pressure".

Now imagine instead of the oil pick up pipe sucking oil from the bottom of the engine ( the sump ) it is sucking it from a pint glass full of oil, and returning it to the pint glass after it has gone round the engine. Here we would only have a pint of oil, but as long as the pick up pipe remained submersed in the oil, we would have good oil pressure :)

I hope that made sense !!!

Regarding low oil pressure.
Those bearings, the main ones being the "big end" bearings at the crankshaft end of the pistons "connecting rods", and the "main bearings" that the crankshaft is supported by, in the main engine casings, wear away as the engine gets older.

When this happens the oil, instead of seeping from them, starts to pour out faster. As the oil pump has a limited ability to keep up with this accelerated rate of oil flow, it "runs out of steam" and the result is low oil pressure.

This is worse when the oil is hot, as it is thinner and therefore flows out of the increased gaps in the worn bearings faster.

The cure.

If this is the cause of your low oil pressure the only thing to do is replace the bearings. Unfortunately it is often not that simple as the metal on the crankshaft will often hasve worn away too. This then involves removing the crankshaft and having it re-conditioned ( "re-ground" as it is called ).
Also it is good practice to change the actual oil pump too.

All this is alot of work involving a complete strip down of the engine, and it costs ALOT !!

Sadly when an engine has got to this condition there are almost certainly other partys that have worn out, such as cam bearings, piston and bores etc. Most folks don't bother trying to recoindition them, they have to buy a replacement engine.

On this subject one has to be very carefull as many non VAG reconditioned engines are sadly lacking in quality and one often hears tales of a locally sourced re-conned engine failing.

Generally it is wise to only buy genuine VAG engines and make sure they are serviced as per the instructions at the dealers to maintain the warranty.

Maybe others on here can recomend some decent non VAG engines, just for future reference ?

Here endeth todays lecture !!!!

Disabling Buzzer of Doom..

Posted: 04 Oct 2006, 20:54
by OLD ONE
ghost123uk... Well done, could not have put it better my self... :lol:

Posted: 05 Oct 2006, 08:52
by johncelliot
Thanks for the explanation! Makes much more sense. Of course that doesn't leave me in the best postion. Either: A - the buzzer is malfunctioning and everything is fine or B - the engine is on its last legs and needs to be rebuilt / replaced.

Either way, I will just keep driving the old thing as I normally would. The engine was supposedly rebuilt 15K miles ago, but I have no paper work for this, so I have no idea what was actually done!

If the engine is indeed on the way out, I am surprised that there aren't any other symptoms (burning oil, smoke, rough running, loss of power, difficulty starting, etc). It doesn't seem right that an engine would run smooth and strong when all it's internals are worn out. I will get the oil pressure checked again when I get a chance. Thanks for the info

JCE

Posted: 05 Oct 2006, 09:00
by Mocki
if you havent already, change the oil AND the filter, poor filters make the BoD fire up when nothing is wrong, and just becaus its a new filter dont mean its good...

it is infact rarely the dash end at fault...

and the easiest way to stop the BoD if nothing is wrong is disconnect the rev signal from the coil, on the Neg connection.

Posted: 05 Oct 2006, 09:00
by ghost123uk
johncelliot wrote:Thanks for the explanation! Makes much more sense. Of course that doesn't leave me in the best postion. Either: A - the buzzer is malfunctioning and everything is fine or B - the engine is on its last legs and needs to be rebuilt / replaced.
JCE

Aye - If you get the HOT oil pressure tested "by the book" you will know for sure which it is.

If that checks out OK, report back and we can guide you through the possible bad connections between the sender ( by the water pump ) and the dashboard that can trigger the "B.O.D."

Posted: 05 Oct 2006, 09:04
by ghost123uk
Good piont re filter Steve :)

I understand that it is always best to buy the genuine VAG filter.

And as for oil, most folks recomend a half decent 20-50 rather than the more recent 10-40's etc. The 20-50 being more suited to our engines.

Posted: 05 Oct 2006, 09:15
by johncelliot
Oil and filter recently replaced. The buzzer has been going off intermittently since I have had the van. Always after a good half an hour of driving when I let off the accelerator. Seems to me that it is not likely a short or bad connection because it always comes on in the same set of circumstances. Is it possible that it is one of the sensors? Is it worth replacing one or both of them? Since it comes on when I let off the accelerator, does that mean that it would be the "low/low pressure" switch that might need replacing?

thanks for the help,

JCE