Club 80-90 Forums

Iv'e got 1.9DG that was having some running issues, sounding like it was mis-firing/running rough so thought it must be fuel or ignition I recently fitted a new petrol pump so I know that is fine, so stripped & cleaned the carb finding some tiny particles of crap, still the same so I fitted new dizzy cap & leads ( plugs were new not long ago) but after fitting I tried to start the van & it back fired then realising the dissy cap wasn't seated properly Now the van won't even start at all when it always used to start first turn of the key Iv'e got fuel & spark but that is it???? NOW I'M STARTING TO WORRY!!! I have bought a compression tester but it says to test a running temp which I can't. So what next?? was hoping to go away for a few days this week as got the week off work but this is now looking very unlikely..

HELP!!!

hi m8 im no expert but somting id wrong was to conect ht leads back on wrong fireing order now i mark them with some elec tape
sound stupid but had me scatching my head for a while. but im sure the owners on here will help you get her running

Iv'e checked , checked & checked again the leads against the manual hoping Iv'e got them mixed but no there right. Wish it was that though..

This seems to be happening a lot recently!

This post might help a bit:

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=121402" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

When you have changed a few parts, then it doesn't start, I would look at the work you've just done and check that it's correct. In the post above, I outlined the procedure for getting the plug leads in the right order, from first principles. The problem is, it's not always useful to look at the picture in the manual of the dizzy alignment, in case it was set up differently before.

In terms of compression checks, it's HIGHLY unlikely that you have suddenly suffered enough of a loss of compression to stop the engine running at all, when the engine hasn't run in the meantime. Loss of compression is usually a gradual thing, unless you break a piston ring or two, but you'd likely have heard that if it happened.

When you say you've "got spark", do you mean you've taken a plug out and turned over the engine with a lead connected and the plug earthed? Or are you just assuming it must be sparking because "everything's new"?

Could you post a picture of the engine, showing dizzy and plug leads?

James

So if the dizzy is not set up as the manual how do you go about finding out where it should be/ where it was?

vw lee wrote:So if the dizzy is not set up as the manual how do you go about finding out where it should be/ where it was?

Have you read what I wrote in that post I linked to?

Sorry James I'm with you now, will be up bright & early (so will the neighbours if it back fires again ) to have a look as it makes sense as nothing else has changed to stop it starting.

Thanks for your help, will let you know how I get on.

Lee

No problem.

Good luck!

You say you "have spark" - where? At a plug? Or at the king (coil) lead?

A cold compression test will certainly tell you whether you have compression, even if the results won't be ideal, but this really does have to be an HT-related problem, given how it started.

Its not unheard of to have a dizzy 180 degrees out.....characterised by a big backfire when trying to start.

I now replace my leads and plugs one at a time....new for old....

Em
xx

(also a new airfilter once resulted in non starting....too much air going throught the now clean air filter....)

RedGus wrote:When you say you've "got spark", do you mean you've taken a plug out and turned over the engine with a lead connected and the plug earthed? Or are you just assuming it must be sparking because "everything's new"?

^^^ Adrian, I asked the same question yesterday, but I don't think we've had an answer yet.

As I also said, I agree with you that it is 99.9% likely to be connected to the work that the OP has just done the HT system, rather than a sudden, catastrophic loss of compression (especially when the engine hasn't run in the meantime). The other thing that got me thinking was the mention of the dizzy cap not being aligned properly before the first attempt to restart, followed by a misfire. I wouldn't be surprised if the rotor arm has done some damage, or been damaged itself, by making contact inside the dizzy cap.

This is about the third time in a week or two that similar questions have come up. It must be catching!

James

Cheers fella's, leads & rotor arm it was.. after a bit of fiddling & swapping the leads around.... SHE'S ALIVE....the idle is a bit inconsistant so need to sort that now but don't want to start messing the carb up. Anyone got any idea's what can cause poor idling

Thanks again for your replies.

vw lee wrote:Anyone got any idea's what can cause poor idling

Air leaks on the intake side, especially vacuum hoses, would be a good place to start. Very cheap and easy to replace.

Oh, and did you check the timing?

Glad the van's running again.

vw lee wrote:Cheers fella's, leads & rotor arm it was.. after a bit of fiddling & swapping the leads around.... SHE'S ALIVE....the idle is a bit inconsistant so need to sort that now but don't want to start messing the carb up. Anyone got any idea's what can cause poor idling

Thanks again for your replies.

a dirty air filter....

The timing was checked & fine before I changed the leads & cap, the air filter is new so think i'll start with the vacuum hoses.

Cheers