Club 80-90 Forums

just sorting the picks out for a slider repair that had to be rushed in lol
mm

Well a simple slider repair !! sort of
first thing is to try and fit the door as is as good as possible,this makes subsequent repairs easier in so far as you know how well it fitted before.

the gap is reasonably parrallel but its suck out well proud

the next 2 show the drop


so reasons need to be found, anyhow thats by and bye for now as this is in need of sorting

this is the usual wear area

what happens is the roller drops into this groove and then allows the door to drop when latching so folk alter the middle hinge to try compensate,,,, it dont really so
welded it up

right back to cuting , decide where to , i try leave as much real steel as i can, and also make the cut in such a way that its easy to do,strong and is discreet


and gone

will post this before i loose it...

and

this is also the mount for the lower runner assembly so i have unpicked the area and will replicate it
this is from the other side

tacked on and rehung to check fit, these are poor panals but are all the same so need a bit of working on.its important to ensure that the inner is correct as you will next be adding the outer and if its too far out then you will never achieve a flush shut

i have already cut this to fit

and the rear edge

now this is an early door, and the nylon type block that acts as a centering guide is badly worn (blocks are available) but worse.... the casting has a bit missing.........the part that prevents the door droppiung off,well not quite but there is a small lug that ensures that you have to position the roller in a certain place to allow the door to be lifted off, as its missing then if a lump of crapp or such got ontop the runner it could have lifted straight off

this is a spare im fitting to show the part.
here is the old in place ,note the twisting movement and the chisel ive used to lever to thing round

now, here you will see or not. that a rubber stopper/buffer is missing

its been like this for ages and has caused loads of damage, on these early doors this rubber acts as a cushioned stop and when the arm hits it it is forced to pivot and in so doing cause the latch to engage on the C post, it dont.. what happens now is the door carries on too far fwd and has destroyed the rubber buffer/guides in the front and damaged the fwd lach receptical, ,it has also damged/worn the rear lock cam so it cannot now function as it should

this should be a parralel cut,
also worn away oin the inside

what this also means is the door has to try to shut even further for nthe tang to actuate and its struggling, so need to source a s/hand one
so back to the door, cut like this so that the outer skin will remain flush,as opposed to on top and then a bucket of filler to make good

now fixed in place


its welded on and the lower and sides are folded over

nearly there, this area is all butt welded so no nasty overlapped join

the folded skin is welded to the old to give a neat join

and nearly there,quick sand and a smear of filler

mm

After that you need a day off, in sunny Wales

Well thats saved a lot of pm's in a few weeks mike

mines gone inner and outer so will have to use the shonky inner repair panels, any supplier better or are they all much the same

cheers

James

i did finish welding the ends
err all the same , this inner is the klocker. i got one from gunzl (silver coloured) and i think it was a touch better but not really a lot in it,
as for the outer well all the klocks are the same . i put a straight edge on the lower andf the end were curved but as you move to the centre the panal is flat ! its difficult to form/press a slow curve into such a thin gauge of metal.
mm

Mike

Really chuffed with the van pal, same could not be said about the pub as it was closed lol.

Let me know when you source those other parts and we can arrange a meeting point.

Regards

Craig

fcuk .just checked . mondays shut