Club 80-90 Forums

I'm in serious need of some help I've done a load of work on the engine on our 1.9DG watercooled engine which has not been running in the last three years, first up here are the videos of me trying to start it and it running brielfy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VY9VqaioSPU

That's the engine running the next one is me trying to start it after it's stalled

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndJipSJSZ_Y" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

After it had run I then noticed what looked like moisture droplets in the main barrel area

http://s1272.photobucket.com/user/rich_ ... 5.jpg.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

What I have done so far
1. All new filters have been fitted (air,fuel and oil)
2. New spark plugs, HT leads, distributor cap and coil fitted
3. Idle stabilizer has been checked
4. Carburettor stripped cleaned and Brickwerks overhaul kit fitted
5. Fuel pump checked and working
6. New exhaust system fitted stainless complete
7. All vacuum hoses have been replaced
8. All cylinders have been compression tested and are at between about 10.5 - 11 bar
9.Tried having a bit of a fiddle with the idle screw and have also checked the choke gap

Van is parked on a sloping drive diagonally facing up the slope.

The next course of action I was thinking about was replacing the vacuum units with the ones available from Brickwerks, the engine was started from cold and I just felt that the choke was opening up too rapidly is this the right thing to be doing?

So after all that if you could give any help or advice I would be very much grateful as I'm running out of ideas and feeling a little with the kids asking when she'll be up and running

Thanks again
Rich

water in the fuel perhaps
take the fuel filter off (renew it) and empty it onto a tile or something non porous
water will bead up and fuel will not.
in the float bowl water sinks to the bottom of the bowl, if your eyesight is good you will be able to make it out, looks like a clear little marble or a lake of it.

The choke takes 6-8 mins from fully closed to fully open.
In the current weather I doubt it will be fully closed.

After three years the fuel being used is pretty much lost it's zing.

Hi Rich, sounds like you have been busy...

the links to the videos dont work, says private.Maybe need to change the permission settings ?

Okay, so it did run ? how long for ? have you definitely got the electrical connections back on in the right place? If the fuel cut of solenoid is not connected then it will keep cutting out... I have heard of people connecting the temp sender to the cut out and vice versa .

is there fuel in the carb ?

It is worth checking everything again from scratch... start with the basics, an engine needs only 3 things to run

Fuel
compression
a spark

It would have been very easy to have overlooked something when refitting.

The pull down unit can be tested by sucking on the pipe, if it does run then everything else can be adjusted to get it correct.
How old is the petrol ? unleaded can go stale after just a few months.

Have you checked the fuel filter near the tank ?

I suspect its a fuel starvation issue rather than anything more series.

get the vids working so we can have a look ... lots of helpful people on here love a challenge ( Kev The Rev particularly likes carb problems ! )

Martin.

lol.... as if by magic Kev beat me to it !

Oops! Will try and sort out the YouTube links

kevtherev wrote:water in the fuel perhaps
take the fuel filter off (renew it) and empty it onto a tile or something non porous
water will bead up and fuel will not.
in the float bowl water sinks to the bottom of the bowl, if your eyesight is good you will be able to make it out, looks like a clear little marble or a lake of it.

The choke takes 6-8 mins from fully closed to fully open.
In the current weather I doubt it will be fully closed.

After three years the fuel being used is pretty much lost it's zing.

Thanks for the reply.

I have put new fuel in (about a quarter of a tank), I have also had a good look in the float bowl and can't see any water. I'm wondering if the small amount of water beads I saw might be a bit of a red herring as I have had this problem for a few weeks and this morning is the first time I have noticed any signs of water.

I will try and take a look at the filter, but it might not be today as I have to take my daughter to a birthday party!

Rich

PS Hopefully the YouTube links now work!

RichH75 wrote: I'm wondering if the small amount of water beads I saw might be a bit of a red herring

I doubt there's enough water to support herring, there should be no water.

remove the pump outlet pipe from the carb and pump out some fuel into a glass.. then you'll see if there are any herrings...red or otherwise

So the latest developments are:

Checked the fuel definitely no signs of water.

Checked all the wiring and sprayed all the connections with WD40.

Checked the pull down unit, by sucking on it, doesn't appear to be holding its vacuum.


Then tried starting the engine - it started first time! Engine then carried on running for over the previous two and a half minutes! As it was running fast i decided to try adjusting the idle speed it carried on running for a total of eight to nines minutes, it then stalled (but I was adjusting the idle speed during this time!).

Tried to restart the engine but it misfired and just didn't want to start again.

My plan is to replace the choke pull down unit and also want to check the spark from the distributor.

Failure is not an option!

Rich

As the engine warms and the choke comes off the mixture weakens.
Any air leaks like that from the choke pull down will weaken the mixture further causing a stall/misfire/rough idle.

Thanks for that Kev I feel a Brickwerks shopping cart coming on....

one other thing
the pierburg has a fast idle mechanism for cold starting.
idle speed should be adjusted on a warmed up engine

Pull down unit ordered, noted don't fiddle unless warm thanks Kevin

Rich

Might just be worth lifting the inlet manifold and replacing the gaskets, fit them with a thin bead of neutral-cure Dirko each side (NOT silicone) The carb inlet manifolds have a habit of distorting slightly with old age, so that they no longer pull down dead flat, resulting in air leaks.
This got me going when swapping manifolds between engines; donor was running A1, recipient wouldn't start!

Sorry forgot to mention that I've replaced those as well doh! But I will lift them off again to put some of that Dirko on as well.

Rich