Club 80-90 Forums

I've had three different mechanics say to me now that T25 handbrakes never work well. Mine failed it's last MOT on the handbrake but a local mechanic got it through with a bit of adjustment. So I have a handbrake that is legal, but still rubbish. Living in hilly Bristol, hill starts are always fun, praying that the driver behind doesn't get too close as I roll back when jumping from the brake pedal to accelerator to start riding the clutch, as the handbrake will only hold it on mellow hills. The rear brakes themselves are in ok condition and work well.

I actually ordered some new backplates, but they are sat in my shed unfitted, and am wondering if I should order some other parts e.g. cable and replace it all, or am I deluding myself that this will help.

So - as per title, has anyone actually got what they would describe as a good handbrake on their T25? e.g. would you confidently park it on a steep hill without leaving it in gear? If not, are there any upgrades to a better rear brake/ hand brake system?

I too live on a hill, and my handbrake is fine on the T25 - never had a problem through MOTs (haven't ever taken drums off to look at the shoes because I don't have a socket big enough )

As for confidence to park on a steel hill without leaving it in gear... no... I wouldn't do that in any vehicle

Most newish cars have discs on the rear - and sometimes if you don't put the handbrake on stupidly tight, they creep, so I always leave it in gear as a precaution

Might be worth taking your drums off, strip them apart, lubricate the pins/springs etc, check condition of shoes and replace if necessary. Cylinders could be buggered? Handbrake cable could be stretched?

Did the mechanic say what the "little adjustment" was? I'm assuming he just tightened the cable?

Four clicks and it would sit anywhere.... Perhaps your cables are stretched to their end?

discipleofsketch wrote:I've had three different mechanics say to me now that T25 handbrakes never work well.

That's three different mechanics who can't be arsed to strip, clean and lubricate the self adjuster. Let's call it an hour a side, from starting on the wheelnuts to tightening them, with a cup of tea and a natter thrown in. Or maybe they just plain don't understand it, despite the fact it's just a bog-standard self-adjusting drum brake.

The adjustment on the cable is only to compensate for cable stretch. The adjuster between the shoes is to compensate for shoe wear - and it should (and will, if it's maintained properly) do that just fine. Without that working properly, your rear brakes won't be at full efficiency, and the first bit of brake pedal travel will be wasted moving the shoes out to meet the drums.

Might also be worth measuring the drum itself - it could be overly worn. Cylinders don't come into the handbrake, but if they're leaking, the shoes could easily be fluid-soaked so not holding well. But that'd show up in fluid loss and poor rear brake efficiency on the MOT, as well.

So - as per title, has anyone actually got what they would describe as a good handbrake on their T25?

Absolutely fine, thanks.

The really big difference between discs and drums, when it comes to handbrakes, is that as discs cool and contract, the handbrake slackens. With drums, it tightens. A lot of cars with rear discs actually have a small drum inside the disc, purely for the handbrake.

Richlaz - you don't need to undo the hub nut to remove the drum, just take the wheel off, then the little 11mm headed bolts...

Adjusted mine properly last year after the van rolled into the centre of the car park in Holmfirth Lucky for me it didn't hit 'owt and was pushed back and someone chocked the front wheels for me....


Three/four clicks and it's rock solid now
David

KINGPRAWN wrote:Four clicks and it would sit anywhere.... Perhaps your cables are stretched to their end?

quite possibly - good to know good T25 handbrakes exist!

richlaz wrote:I too live on a hill, and my handbrake is fine on the T25 - never had a problem through MOTs (haven't ever taken drums off to look at the shoes because I don't have a socket big enough )

As for confidence to park on a steel hill without leaving it in gear... no... I wouldn't do that in any vehicle

Most newish cars have discs on the rear - and sometimes if you don't put the handbrake on stupidly tight, they creep, so I always leave it in gear as a precaution

I always leave my car in gear on steep hills too, but only as a precaution - the handbrake has always been solid on my 1998 new beetle, would confidently leave that out of gear on virtually any hill, though obviously it's much lighter than a T25.

richlaz wrote: Might be worth taking your drums off, strip them apart, lubricate the pins/springs etc, check condition of shoes and replace if necessary. Cylinders could be buggered? Handbrake cable could be stretched?

All Ok (though cylinders only come into play for the foot brake don't they?), but yes the handbrake cable may well be stretched

richlaz wrote: Did the mechanic say what the "little adjustment" was? I'm assuming he just tightened the cable?

I think just the cable, yep.

So it sounds like it is worth pursuing in the future then - a handbrake overhaul. The MOT centre recommended I replace the backplates, which is why I have some sitting in my shed, I reckon doing those and with new cables, and any other bits that need doing that I spot along the way, I can at least stop scaring the cars behind me at traffic lights

AdrianC wrote:

discipleofsketch wrote:I've had three different mechanics say to me now that T25 handbrakes never work well.

That's three different mechanics who can't be arsed to strip, clean and lubricate the self adjuster. Let's call it an hour a side, from starting on the wheelnuts to tightening them, with a cup of tea and a natter thrown in. Or maybe they just plain don't understand it, despite the fact it's just a bog-standard self-adjusting drum brake.

To be fair, two of them were just making a general observation about T25's they had driven, only one was actually adjusting my handbrake!

Cheers for all the useful replies - exactly what I wanted to hear, i'm gonna get me a decent handbrake (sometime between now and next MOT.. at least)

if yours is the early van 1984 or before fit the later handbrake far superior to the early system mine locks the wheels on 3 clicks now

I have a 1980 van and the handbrake is solid as a rock, could park it on Everest and don't think it would move.

you might want to check that spring that can be put on the wrong way and stop the auto adjuster working...also make sure your back plates are not corroded too thin that the handbrake cable 'seat' has collapsed when you put the handbrake on

Don't know what I was thinking earlier... cylinder is obviously just for the footbrake lol (I just re-read my post and thought What the blithering heck )

Adrian:
I'll have to take my drums off and have a look one day then! I (quite stupidly) assumed it would be the big nut in the middle!

The last car I had with drums on the back was an old 1993 Fiesta (yes... I just owned up to previously owning a Ford! ), just after I passed my driving test, 30mm socket to take the drums off

E D I T: LOL Didn't realise the word "F o r d" was blocked

richlaz wrote:The last car I had with drums on the back was an old 1993 Fiesta (yes... I just owned up to previously owning a . .! ), just after I passed my driving test, 30mm socket to take the drums off

That's 'ickle. It's a 44mm, to about 300lbft, on a 2cv... Overkill?

Only slightly overkill

Would need a 12ft scaffolding pole to undo one of those

mine works perfectly...prob the only thing that does

Drums work way better than disks for handbrakes because of the self servo action of the shoe being forced onto the drum.