Club 80-90 Forums

carb problems how do I tell which carb is fitted can they be renovated ? or is it better to replace limited funds

might help if we new what engine...

but I shall endeavor to enlighten you
if it's a peirburg it's written on the carb.
if it's a solex it's written on the carb..

might help if you tell us the problems, carbs rarely cause problems, but what attaches to them does.

hi had a catalogue of problems went for a weeks run up north van started running rough and jerking losing power forced it along hoping it would clear itself but no recovered to garage which seemed to work on lorrys said it was coil but still not running then they said it was fuel pump fitted electric one still not start it appeared to be taking in air in fuel line new line and van started drove away having been relieved of 350 quid van starts racing when it should be ticking over then clears itself then sticks again drinking fuel 1900 dg it looks like its a peirburg carb

reads like your autochoke & fast idle mechanism is sticking
liberally spray the mechanism with WD 40 and then a light oil... work the mechanism by hand untill it moves freely.
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don't forget the flap actuating lever


here's the whole mechanism with the carb split

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cheers kev will try that will let you know the outcome cheers wiggy

thanks kev done that but still the same going to garage Friday to sort out carb and timing

Ok
Before you do just check the bi metal spring in the housing hasn't broken or come off the spindle dog
Lastly
When the engine is warm
Take a look at the top of the carb
The flap should be fully open
And the butterfly valve at the bottom is free to rotate and return

wiggy wrote: going to garage Friday to sort out carb and timing

The timing will not have changed itself ... keep meddling fingers out once correctly set at 5 degrees before TDC with vac hose removed.

DO NOT be conned into having a Weber fitted

Ian

update put the van in to garage last Friday checked timing and carb noisey tappets adjusted them told me I had lost compression on no1 cylander would to do further tests paid the guy took the van to a mate of mines who knows these engines don't like being a pest but asked him to look at it did a compression test and all pistons fine checked the tappets to find on one side broken valve spring on other side the rod that holds the lifters snapped in two sorted out the problem for me said the first guy had overtightened the tappets all good now van running as should narrow escape me thinks

How did you replace a broken valve spring without removing the head

And if you mean the rocker shaft was broken, what did the garage say when you went back and told them.

How did you get it home from the garage by the way ?

You can change a valve spring without taking a head off by feeding nylon rope in through the spark plug hole to "pack-out" the gap between the piston & the head. After gentle turning the piston towards TDC the valve should stay in place while you get the spring out. Obviously this is a bit of a bodge and should only be tried by experienced tinker'ers or very lazy people.

Ah yes the indian rope trick
I have to confess using that one a couple of times

laziness is correct, in my case

hi don't know if I should give away trade secret to hold valve in place take out spark plug screw in made up adaptor put on air line pushes valve against seat and holds it firmly in place when I told the guy at the garage he said he did not know how he missed it broken spring on one side and rocker shaft on other and yes I drove it a short distance the rocker shaft although broken was held in place by the bit that bolts on to the head don't know the name of it