Metalmick8y's Gear Linkage Adjustmant for a Wiki???
Posted: 11 Jun 2013, 11:41
Taken from the thread at https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7888833 and words from Metalmick8y, Thanks chaps!
Couldn't see a Wiki for setting gear linkages so have tidied this up a bit.
Many thanks,
-------------------------------------------
Right fun!
You need the off side of the van jacked up so you can get under the bugger.
- Remove spare wheel and leave the carrier in the down position.
- Clean splined area of rod.
- Get a lamp up behind the shift box so you light up the bottom of the gearstick.
- Have couple of 13mm spanners for the clamp on the splined join.
- Have good set of mole grips and fasten to gearstick side of splined shaft.
- 2nd set grips to other side of splines.
- 3rd set around the shaft at gearbox end.
You're now set up...
Can you confirm that you have a clean neutral, that is you can move between 2/3rd to 4th/5th (ignore 1st/rev for now)?
If you have a free travel across the gate then your fore/aft on the splines will be about correct.
Now bear this in mind, whatever movement you do under the van is opposite in the van at the gearstick
So now get under the van and with the grips move the rod fore and aft and confirm by looking through the gap at the spare carrier that the bottom of the stick is return ing to the central position ie; neutral. If it doesn't then loosen the clamp and move fwd or backwards till it sits in neutral, now nip it up and wind some tape round the rear rod where it enters the front rod.
This is so that if you need to alter the rotational aspect you will always know where the fore/aft position is.
Next set 4th/5th;
- At the gearbox end grab the grips and rotate so the arm that goes into the gearbox is fully out and holding this observe the bottom of the gearstick, the fork should be to the left of the alloy blocks,
- Move the rod forward to 5th gear and look to see that the stick bottom moves forward with out catching the alloy blocks.
- Keeping it pulled out pull the rod backwards , this =4th gear,
- Now back to neutral, and in this relaxed position move the rod aft =2nd. When you do this the fork should pass over the alloy blocks with out catching.
- Move the rod forward =3rd. Check the same, does it pass over the blocks okay? If it does then you are near enough there.
- If it's not correct rotaionally, then loosen the spline clamp and move the rod round one spline and nip back up to your tape mark for fore/aft.
Its a case of repeating this till it's right. There is also some adjustnment where the stick bolts to the selector box. Look in Haynes for this, but i set mine in the middle average position.
It takes 10-15 minutes once your set up.
#mike
-----------------------------
Metalmick8y on the reverse detent:-
Okay, in the box (gearstick box) you will see a lump of metal bolted to the off side, this is the restrictor for reverse, now i ALWAYS remove these.
The reason is this:
The gear stick when adjusted correctly sits in neutral and thats that, the 2/3rd and 4/5th neutral gate is finger pressure either way.
To engage 1st you have to use a bit of effort, this is to overcome the dedent spring on the side of the gear stick, then pull back for first. Now with the stupid reverse lock plate removed as you move the gearstick forwards toward neutral it will, as soon as you hit the neutral gate be forced by the detent spring towards the 2/3rd part of the gate. Never ever will it want to go straight fwd to reverse, (unless you dont have the detent spring as in you've lost the bugger)
#mike
Couldn't see a Wiki for setting gear linkages so have tidied this up a bit.
Many thanks,
-------------------------------------------
Right fun!
You need the off side of the van jacked up so you can get under the bugger.
- Remove spare wheel and leave the carrier in the down position.
- Clean splined area of rod.
- Get a lamp up behind the shift box so you light up the bottom of the gearstick.
- Have couple of 13mm spanners for the clamp on the splined join.
- Have good set of mole grips and fasten to gearstick side of splined shaft.
- 2nd set grips to other side of splines.
- 3rd set around the shaft at gearbox end.
You're now set up...
Can you confirm that you have a clean neutral, that is you can move between 2/3rd to 4th/5th (ignore 1st/rev for now)?
If you have a free travel across the gate then your fore/aft on the splines will be about correct.
Now bear this in mind, whatever movement you do under the van is opposite in the van at the gearstick
So now get under the van and with the grips move the rod fore and aft and confirm by looking through the gap at the spare carrier that the bottom of the stick is return ing to the central position ie; neutral. If it doesn't then loosen the clamp and move fwd or backwards till it sits in neutral, now nip it up and wind some tape round the rear rod where it enters the front rod.
This is so that if you need to alter the rotational aspect you will always know where the fore/aft position is.
Next set 4th/5th;
- At the gearbox end grab the grips and rotate so the arm that goes into the gearbox is fully out and holding this observe the bottom of the gearstick, the fork should be to the left of the alloy blocks,
- Move the rod forward to 5th gear and look to see that the stick bottom moves forward with out catching the alloy blocks.
- Keeping it pulled out pull the rod backwards , this =4th gear,
- Now back to neutral, and in this relaxed position move the rod aft =2nd. When you do this the fork should pass over the alloy blocks with out catching.
- Move the rod forward =3rd. Check the same, does it pass over the blocks okay? If it does then you are near enough there.
- If it's not correct rotaionally, then loosen the spline clamp and move the rod round one spline and nip back up to your tape mark for fore/aft.
Its a case of repeating this till it's right. There is also some adjustnment where the stick bolts to the selector box. Look in Haynes for this, but i set mine in the middle average position.
It takes 10-15 minutes once your set up.
#mike
-----------------------------
Metalmick8y on the reverse detent:-
Okay, in the box (gearstick box) you will see a lump of metal bolted to the off side, this is the restrictor for reverse, now i ALWAYS remove these.
The reason is this:
The gear stick when adjusted correctly sits in neutral and thats that, the 2/3rd and 4/5th neutral gate is finger pressure either way.
To engage 1st you have to use a bit of effort, this is to overcome the dedent spring on the side of the gear stick, then pull back for first. Now with the stupid reverse lock plate removed as you move the gearstick forwards toward neutral it will, as soon as you hit the neutral gate be forced by the detent spring towards the 2/3rd part of the gate. Never ever will it want to go straight fwd to reverse, (unless you dont have the detent spring as in you've lost the bugger)
#mike
