Club 80-90 Forums

Hi Guys,

I am about to start using filler on the van and was wondering if anyone can recommend a kind of sanding plane I guess for the larger areas? Surly a normal rubber sanding block is too small and will lead to areas showing through when painted?

I searched around a fair bit on here and cannot find much info in way of filling / sanding etc can anyone point me in the right direction?

Cheers

They're called either dreadnought (curved teeth) or a millenicut (straight angled with swarf gaps)

Only Ian Silverbullet and one or two others will agree... generally called body files or filler files.

10 or 14" long and wide they can be fitted to a holder with handles and curved either convex or concave to follow a panel...

If you like pictures better I'll sort that as soon as... I've had cake and tea.

Have a look at the car restoration company Frosts. They have a wide range of parts suitable for the type of work you are doing.
http://www.frost.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Hope this helps.

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... -with-file

[image]http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=body+f ... 60&bih=567[/image]

Flexible body file holders

HarryMann wrote:http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... -with-file

[image]http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=body+f ... 60&bih=567[/image]

Flexible body file holders

Cheers Harry, Not cheap hey!

Do you add sandpaper to that? or is it purely a flexible metal file?

I don't need extensive sanding back of filler but I have been told to do panel dents etc I must cover most of the panel so thought something bigger than a rubber block might be needed.

bmouthboyo wrote:Hi Guys,

I am about to start using filler on the van and was wondering if anyone can recommend a kind of sanding plane I guess for the larger areas? Surly a normal rubber sanding block is too small and will lead to areas showing through when painted?

I searched around a fair bit on here and cannot find much info in way of filling / sanding etc can anyone point me in the right direction?

Cheers

this is what we use,if you have never done sanding before i wouldn't go for file i haven't used mine for years http://www.fishermotorfactors.co.uk/abr ... g-pads?p=2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

body files are not used for filler, i use them for lead only
small hand block ,in rubber for most stuff and a longer 3-400 for larger areas, this is not so much to remove more filler but to avoid hi and lo spots , that said I hate filler anyway
as for frosts catlogue, usefull to spot stuff and find its correct name then search elsewhere for the item as they are £££££££££££££££ for my palate
mm

Well, not wanting to disagree with bodywork people I do have to say I use a body or fillerfile with or without mounting on a flex-frame to .- (what I thought was) - great advantage.
Removes lots of filler quickly and doesn't create flat spots... I've also seen they make reallu massive ones too for shaping whole wings and bonnets.

Maybe its an amateur thing... or I'm just bad at filling, but once discovered miss it if it goes walkies...

christ H, what are you putting it on with a shovel i was taught ... whoever puts it on ,takes it off, you then learn to be real neat.
whilst i use very little filler.i once used it in industrial quantities but if put on correctly it needs just a blocking off, and never use a round orbital sander like a DA, use a flat rectangular one if youve made that much mess applying it
IMMHO
mm

No orbital MM, up till now anyway, all manual. Been filing stuff since early years incl. 8' long wood aerofoil sections symmetrical to high degree matching form templates both sides, prob 10 thou either way.
Nothing like a file in the right hands... watched craftsmen actually 'planing' wood wind tunnel model wings and only used a sanding block or file for final finish... incredible. All gone now no doubt though. Pattern makers replaced by NC machines

In short though, and to be honest, yes, probably larapping far too much on... but probably fed up of constantly re-mixing & re-filling due hollows once levelled out...

each re-mix would be a 150 ft back to shed and 150 ft forth to job when I find a small hollow, so larapp lots on, and quickly dreadnought or millenicut it back orft

hehe
well from my experience, you only need 3 applications at most .ok this is generalising as i dont use much nowadays but most of the issues with repeated additions are that you have not removed enough prior to adding again.folk get a hollow and rub a bit and then add more to fill the hollow and it goes on. not saying this in your case , im just genralising. i used to get a right sorting if i was caught with a da on filler, they dig in and cause no end of horrors, hence single rectangular or a double,
the perception is it takes lonbger but in fact you are doing it correctly over a larger area and its quicker.
type of pod makes a difference as some slump more than others,
also pod dont like being played with, get it on once right is what was drummed into me.
and yes you can yuse a surform, they have many uses just that i dont personally use them accept on lead
mm

metalmick8y wrote:hehe
well from my experience, you only need 3 applications at most .ok this is generalising as i dont use much nowadays but most of the issues with repeated additions are that you have not removed enough prior to adding again.folk get a hollow and rub a bit and then add more to fill the hollow and it goes on. not saying this in your case , im just genralising. i used to get a right sorting if i was caught with a da on filler, they dig in and cause no end of horrors, hence single rectangular or a double,
the perception is it takes lonbger but in fact you are doing it correctly over a larger area and its quicker.
type of pod makes a difference as some slump more than others,
also pod dont like being played with, get it on once right is what was drummed into me.
and yes you can yuse a surform, they have many uses just that i dont personally use them accept on lead
mm

You're right with getting the filling right... learnt that years ago and now recently again