Club 80-90 Forums

Well, that was easier than I expected.

No doubting which one's been making all the noise, though...
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I didn't think to check for play, though, before taking the wheel off. There was nothing feelable through the steering, even on mid-corner bumps.

Removal was much, much easier than I was expecting - Once the brake and grease cap were out the way, unpeen the centre nut and remove it - and the brake disc just fell off.

Brickwerks had kindly pressed the inner races into the new discs before shipping, so assembly was a doddle - except for the grease seal. Bit of a PITA, that. Both of them seemed to go in square, but had a section of the inner lip sticking out, over the bearing, rather than behind it. Both went in fairly easily with a little pick and electrical-size flat screwdriver, but it wouldn't surprise me if that face had got a bit torn in places. Likely to be an issue?

That big nut does not need to be at all tight, does it? Bentley says the thrust washer should just be able to be moved with a screwdriver - with that, the nut's almost thrown at it... The peening really is vital. Can't help feeling a castle nut and split pin would be a bit more positive.

And as for the brand new speedo cable we fitted when we were in Sarran. Let's just say that there's absolutely no doubt as to why the speedo died the other week... Bloody thing had snapped clean off just inside the grease cap. No warning, no juddering needle. Just suddenly no speedo.

Are any special tools needed Adrian? I'll have to do the same on one of mine I think. What did it sound like when it was going?

ronsrecord wrote:Are any special tools needed Adrian?

Surprisingly few tools of any kind.

Once you've got the caliper off, as if you were changing the pads...
22mm socket on long bar to remove the caliper mount.
27mm socket for the wheel bearing nut.
Something (I used a very blunt and knackered wood chisel) to de-peen the old wheel bearing nut and peen the new one.
Something to remove the grease cap.
Wheel bearing grease. There's a sachet with each bearing, but I think I used about three times that. SLATHERED...
Can of aerosol brake cleaner.
About half a kitchen roll...

I didn't bother replacing the pads - they're near new, and were unscored.

What did it sound like when it was going?

From even very low speed, it was a loud, rough rumble. I've had musical wheel bearings before, on other vehicles, many times - but never one quite like that. Initially, I didn't think it was a wheel bearing - the voice of doom was telling me the diff was dying.

Cheers Adrian - yep sounds like that's it!

AdrianC wrote:That big nut does not need to be at all tight, does it? Bentley says the thrust washer should just be able to be moved with a screwdriver - with that, the nut's almost thrown at it... The peening really is vital. Can't help feeling a castle nut and split pin would be a bit more positive.

Just a follow-up to this. We've only done a few hundred miles in the van since doing the discs and bearings - but last time out, there was a definite graunch noise from the RHF wheel when turning left, anything but very gently. No sign of any bearing whine, though.

I've finally got round to pulling the wheel off for a look, and the big castle nut was VERY loose. But it was still peened in place. With the peening relieved, it could just be rotated by finger. I've tightened it (maybe 3/4 of a turn) back to the right "washer just moving" state, and re-peened it, and we'll see what happens. I'm guessing that one of the bearings hadn't quite seated correctly, and had settled into place, loosening it all off.

Yes, when i changed mine, i thought i didn't like that small peened nut. . even now, when im doing a large corner at speed, my mind is on that outside little nut! Hmm

Hi Adrian,
3/4 of a turn to re-adjust sounds worrying, the wheel must have been 'flapping' with that much play.
True....the wheel bearings themselves must not be 'loaded' as in, under pressure, from the nut.

Making sure the 'races' are all the way 'home' is fairly easy when you know what to listen for. The 'tone' of the race changes as it 'seats fully' to the machined stop and the tone of the 'strike' imediately rises at the same time the hammer strike bounces on the punch.

It isn't unusual to find a 'loose nut' as long as wheel play is minimal and the nut peen is secure.

Martin

California Dreamin wrote:3/4 of a turn to re-adjust sounds worrying, the wheel must have been 'flapping' with that much play.

It did indeed sound worrying...