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Posted: 14 Sep 2006, 10:09
by jed the spread
have you tryed a pin?
jed
Posted: 14 Sep 2006, 12:23
by Aidan
and compressed air usually in combination brings them back to good.
Posted: 14 Sep 2006, 17:56
by CovKid
Aye - otherwise its dash out.
Posted: 14 Sep 2006, 23:05
by dingleyhythe
I got the drivers one out without removing anything else - you can just get pliers on the back of it to mangle it enough to get it out. New ones are a pound or so. To get the tube over the new one applying a fag lighter for a couple of seconds worked a teat. If it doesn't work right after a couple of goes with a pin and an air blast give up- my experience was the ball was loose in the moulding and it just kept moving round until it blocked.
Posted: 17 Sep 2006, 15:55
by MacAoidh
If you don't have ready access to comressed air, I've found that a water hose (with nozzle) does the job.[/i]
Posted: 15 Nov 2006, 13:11
by VT20 Bus
Just caught up with this.
I got my local garage to replace the washer jets when it was in for windscreen leak fix, and they did it by gripping the jets securely with something (Molegrips?) and pulling. Thus probably breaking the little legs on the back or the jets (but I had already supplied them with 4 off replacements). They then attached the washer pipe to the new jet, and pushed it back in the hole.
Result = dash not removed, equals lower bill for me.
Thinking about it now there was a chance of the edge of the hole losing its paint and rusting later on -- but the new jets have good rubbery gaskets and don't leak.
Nor does the windscreen corner any more and I have a dry floor!
Posted: 15 Nov 2006, 13:35
by Georgedog
VT20 ..
Did you remove the screen and use sealant to re-fit ?? or just tidy the rusty bubbles + put screen back in to stop your screen leak ??
I got damp floor at the mo' needs sorting [usual bottom o/side crusty frame]