Club 80-90 Forums

Hi,
I have narrowed a problem with my Eber down to the control box not pulsing the pump. I can pulse the pump with a direct feed and have belled all the cabled out so I know there is continuity. Does anyone know where I can get the ECU repaired. I am sure it is only something simple but I have not got a clue. It is the later black one for the B1L.

Checked overheat cutout and temperature switch?
Checked glowplug?
Checked the fuse in the ecu?

There is no fuel in it. The fan starts up but there is no output at all to the pump. It doesnt even click once. There is no fuse in the ECU and no where for one to go. Looking at the back of the pcb, some of it looks at little burnt to my untrained eye. I have given it to a friend now who is going to go through the components to check for faults ( I had no idea he could do this ). When I sent him a pic his words were ' cool, old school ' as he works on modern car ecu's as an auto electrician. Fingers crossed.

The fuse in the ecu for the B1L is for the fuel pump.

Oh right. Where is the fuse here as this is the same. Hopefully it is the fuse as that is an easy fix. This pic is of one the same and the ringed transisters are the ones that were blown on his and he had the same symptoms. Thought it might be a good place to start but a fuse would be better.

That is not oem the fuse goes between the two sets of connectors on the 12v B1L ecu.

This is a good place to start.
Again: (last time)

Oldiebut goodie wrote:

Oldiebut goodie wrote:Checked overheat cutout and temperature switch?
Checked glowplug?

If these are not correct the pump will not operate.

It is OEM.Iit is the same as mine and the part number works for eberspacher. it is a later model. How would I check the glow plug? I have never seen this thing run as it was disconnected in my van when I got it. I have still got to tee in the fuel line but everything else is there. Thanks for your help by the way. I do appreciate it.

Check for continuity on the overheat cutout and also the temperature switch.
Check continuity of the glow plug - resistance is usually around 0.75 to 1 ohm.

Ok, I have taken the cover off and there is continuity across both switches. Whipped the plug out and have 0.6-1.0 ( hard to keep hand steady but my meter has just been calibrated ) I have checked the two earths on the body and both have continuity. Starting to think it is the ECU. Where the glow plug came from had some surface rust on it. I suppose this is normal as it has not been used?

They seem OK.
Are you getting above 10.5v at the heater whilst the heater is attempting to start? (Ideally a minimum of 11v.)

Yeah, I am doing it off a fully charged jump pack as it is easier to disconnect it each time I want to play with it. I am determined to get this, It seems a waste to have it all there and not use it.

That is not what I asked - there is a difference.

just under 13v is what it is measuring

At the heater? I would expect it to be lower there.