Club 80-90 Forums

Just about to pull back an old repair to get to the plate sitting literally on top of the O/s front jacking point. See photo (thanks to who took this) with red dot where I mean. I'm not confident to cut the inner b post back and realise if I only cut back the outer b post skin then it will not expose enough. Is it possibly to cut a square hole in the top of the inner sill next to the inner base of the B post for adequate access? See pics of the area thanks I think to MM.

thats not my work
but i see the predicament
are you looking to replace the entire jp .or just repair it?
if you look at sunnyvagon youy will see how it goes/went together,
the jp is built into the outrigger and the top of it is the sill closure plate, there is also the vertical support thast welds to the inside of the inner part of the b post , i make a longer version for repairs that allow a big puddle weld from the inside of the van therough the inner part of the b post, and the bottom is shaped to fir the area where the jack inserts and it welds to the sill.
did a couple on a few vans recently, cant reacall which ones though, maybe kevs or andytats
mm

Yes, have managed it without, by sliding a section in there, but it will drive you bonkers...

Cut the floor away between the door seal pressing, about 2" in, and the sill's inner flange. Usually resulting in a triangle, maybe think about angling across from the rear corner of the B-pillar to behind the seat box at the sills flange, where it's widest and flattest.

The floor plates are very often corroded badly in this region anyway, so may need replacing. If the cut-out is large enough, you might get arm access right back to the C pillar for inspection and cleaning and treating.

You might also find the front plate to the sill, access from wheel well, needs a healthy patch too, where water has sat behind the sill's front upfolded flange.

The difficult bit IMHO, is working in logical stages so you can clean up and treat the back of work and welds before closing back up each section. Dinitrol RC800 and 900 are v.useful initially after clearing and brushing up back, post weld.

I'll try to put some photos up of (presuming) a n/s repair in that area...
The bottom of the B Pillar is usually a dog's dinner.

NB. I've often advocated one or two well placed small holes to keep that area drained!

this shows the construction (O/S) ? as per your picky
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 6&start=30" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
and
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 6&start=75" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
up to you how nyou get in there but as H says,it will be rotten behind the arch and all the surrounding areas so a can of things will be opened
mm

Hmmmm.....firstly, MM sorry to misquote your work, secondly has anyone in North or East London got access to an indoor area with electricity for rent/borrow/donation..?

So the area where loading bay floor meets B post inner is all good (above the sill) but having cut an inspection hatch in the front vertical of the outrigger there is a big hole in the inner sill above the jacking point. Strangely the rsut ahs not gone too far but I know that I will need to cut out and re-do the lower 3 inches of the inner B post to where it meets the jacking point/outer lip. *NB See pic - not of my van but of the missing bit of lower inner B post. (thanks for pic) Does anyone make or sell this repair panel as I'm not sure that i am up to fabricating it will simple tools and basic skills. It will be difficult to plate over the top of the jacking point without cutting back heavily over and to the side of it but hopefully when I et the outer B post off and cut it back all will become clearer & of course more complicated! NB Thanks to Mike I already have the inner B post stiffener that you made up and I used one on the other (less complicated side),

Over the years i've worked on my van outside, on the street in Hackney, welding mostly done miles away in an old barn whih is now almost impossible to use/unsafe/full up.

well you can drop a simple bit to the inner of the b post and down to the sill.then weld the bit i made you to this and the sill, then close the sides and then the b post outer,then on with the lower outer sill .
how did you locate the rear arm mount correctly
mm

Ok, thanks. That pic is not from my van, just to show the missing area of rusted inner B post. These pics are what I've found inside the inspection hole i cut.

When I first had the van and believed that exterior rust (bottom of external B post) was not a sign of anything wrong inside (turned a blind eye) I welded this lower patch at the base of the post and to the outer edge of the JP.

inspection area cut
View inside....internalbelow JPthrough JP lower hole looking upfrom Rear of JPbad pic of internal lower post.

Ah the plot thickens
i would cut all the bad stuff out the way, at least go back to something fit to weld with/to. i know often easier said etc but it really is.
you neednt worry overly about the authenticity of the repair, , but look at it in several parts, you have the inner sill ,then the main outrigger which joins it, then the B post inner can be any shape you want as long as it carries the load vertically to the sill and hence top of jp. then stick the bit i sent you on it and then close it all up,
mm

Yes, I think that is good advice, treat each area separately but do consider the way the loads are transferred.
I go for authenticity, up to a point, but again, the bottom line being it doesn't matter if the strength and corrosion resistance are good enough...

I did my radius arm pickup forks ad hoc local repair, just the inner webs. You have to be like surgeon with the 1mm grinder disc at times, but doable.
Keep saying I'll put some pics up so must do...

Thank you both- the tricky think for me is how to cut out areas that you can't get a 4" grinder into- a small air cutter would be ideal but do t have these tools/facilities- I'm looking at a stemmed type 20mm cutting disk on a shaft for the small, awkward bits. More pics later today as I shall be opening her up before surgery!

do not underestimate the old ways.... i use a 2" brick bolster really sharpened and it will cut through any steel on these vans,bit lioke a manual air chissel but in some ways beetr with more control and certainly less bulky
mm

Ahh yes, thanks, good point! Well, some progress....

The last pic is just an idea at present as I don't have an 3-4 mm plate but had a spare jacking point, cut back, could be welded in as a middle stiffener?

see, not so bad once the sh-yte is cut away, if you send me measurements or do a template and post i can soon cut you some steel or fold a bit and post it
mm

Waltraud,

Nice to see my van is famous it was my pic near the top of the thread. I repaired that with a B Post section from JK. Not sure if what i did was the right way to do it i.e cutting where I did. The welding was quite hard and i would probably do it different if i did it again.

Anyway good luck and happy the pic helped

Chris

Silver- cheers mate, thanks for copy! Mm, your encouragement is priceless, thank you for all the tips. I've made a repair plate for the lower area and punched some holes. Not sure if the RH flange as you look at it should go vertically down to the JP or be slightly curved like the left hand side? On the Ns of my van the resr seam of back b post to front B post seems straight down. See pic where I've just bent the Lhs of the plate but not the right.