Club 80-90 Forums

Have just got back form taking the van to the local council MOT station. Having sailed through it's MOT the last 3 years I suppose it was about time it failed. i have to say I do find the Council MOT service good they are nice guys and honest as they have nothing to gain from failing the vehicle as they do not do any repair work themselves. So my view is if they fail it it must be genuine.

A few simple things that I can do myself but would appreciate advice on the others if possible:

1) RBT front brake imbalance: 36%

Not sure what can cause this. I plan to replace pads and change the brake fluid (never been changed in 5 years)
Anything else that would cause the imbalance?

2)N/S front trackrod end ball joint dust cover split

Does this mean replacing the whole ball joint or just the cover and how difficult would it be to do without specialist tools?

3) O/S cover front suspension ball joint dust cover damaged.
Does this mean replacing the whole ball joint or just the cover and how difficult would it be to do without specialist tools?

chriscburgess wrote:Have just got back form taking the van to the local council MOT station. Having sailed through it's MOT the last 3 years I suppose it was about time it failed. i have to say I do find the Council MOT service good they are nice guys and honest as they have nothing to gain from failing the vehicle as they do not do any repair work themselves. So my view is if they fail it it must be genuine.

A few simple things that I can do myself but would appreciate advice on the others if possible:

1) RBT front brake imbalance: 36%

Not sure what can cause this. I plan to replace pads and change the brake fluid (never been changed in 5 years)
Anything else that would cause the imbalance? Badly scored brake discs, stuck or seizing caliper. Worn pads as you mentioned

2)N/S front trackrod end ball joint dust cover split

Does this mean replacing the whole ball joint or just the cover and how difficult would it be to do without specialist tools? Yes you can replace the boot if you can source one (at least one place online) though probably better to swap out joint as it will no doubt be worn/ wearing with split boot. Often a good smack on the side of the joint with a lump hammer will set it free once nut is undone or use a joint splitter.

3) O/S cover front suspension ball joint dust cover damaged.
Does this mean replacing the whole ball joint or just the cover and how difficult would it be to do without specialist tools?
As above

Ralph

One of my track rod end dust covers had split this year, strangely not spotted by the MOT tester but seen a couple of days later when I was doing my plastic thermostat housing (which he had reported leaking whilst doing the MOT) lol.

Power steering rack was overhauled exactly three years ago, I guess the rubbers weren't up to VW standards...
Anyway...took some off a Toyota Avensis rack we have in the training workshop...spot on fit.

Martin

Thanks Guys.

Just found ball joint rubber at JK for £5.50 or VW Heritage for £4.40.
Although whole ball joint is £16.50 at VW H and £27.30 at Brickwerks!

Is it worth just replacing the rubber or should I go for the whole ball joint?

Track rod ends are only £8 at VW H or £16.83 at Brickwerks. At £8 its not worht messing about to find a rubber on its own.

Get the Brickwerks ones, they may be more expensive, but you will only need to change them once.

Cheaper ones just don't last, and you will find yourself changing them again next MOT when you find the boots have split again.

chriscburgess wrote:Is it worth just replacing the rubber or should I go for the whole ball joint?

Is there any play in the joint?

Both of our joint boots were split. One joint was _shagged_, thoroughly. The other was rock solid. One boot, one joint.

As for the front brakes - 36% imbalance? Wow. Must have been really tugging at the steering when you braked.

AdrianC wrote: As for the front brakes - 36% imbalance? Wow. Must have been really tugging at the steering when you braked.

Well that's the odd thing - you may think I have been naive here but I had to do an emergency stop two days before and it stopped dead straight, no tugging at all.

As for the front brake imbalance, if you have the rolling road figures the lowest one of the two front shows which side is the problem. That side is sticking, most likely due to pads tight in caliper due to build up of crap/rust. Pads in that case will be hard to slide out of caliper.Second most likely cause is pistons sticking due to crap/rust build up between piston and caliper bore. (rubber cover to protect piston from elements may be torn also.) To overcome this sticking prob if caught early enough I gently insert a small electrical screwdriver under lip of rubber and run it round piston to unstick rubber from piston as with time they can glue themselves together.Then use something to prevent pistons from coming fully out as you need to pump them partially out to clean and lubricate them. With pads removed they could be pumped fully out of their bores before they reach the disc face so you need some thing to stop them coming out that far. I remove calipers and carefully avoid disconnecting pipes, that way you can clean the flat surfaces the pads slide on all the way through.and copperslip them and also clean pads.With screwdriver gently prise rubber away from piston and put a few drops of brakefluid round piston/bore then get someone to GENTLY pump pedal while you watch piston don't come out too far, and do this a few times pushing piston back into bore each time without "cockling" it to either side i.e. equal and level. I find it's best not to disturb rubber at the larger dia. on caliper as thats a sod to get back when its been on a while. When caliper goes back on get bolts in correct place, top bolt back in top, bottom in bottom. Dont attempt to split caliper for any reason. Most likely probs of imbalance 1 pads tight in caliper. 2 pistons tight. 3. Flexi rubber hose breaking down internally.
If joints not worn fit rubbers, particularly bottom ball joint as this is pressed in and even with arm off the space around bore is very thin and difficult to place a tube to press against. You will need to clean lip thoroughly and may need to get suspension arm as horizontal as poss.
If you end up having to get new calipers, beware there is some real crap out there. Stick with Lockheed, FAG, Schaeffer, GKN, Bosch, etc.

Thanks Blacky thats really helpful.

Just a question - you mention using copperslip. is this on the back or edges of the pads or the piston?

I am a little worried about putting any form of grease near the pads as i thought it would penetrate them and they would be shot.

chris

Last year my 1990 Westy only just passed the brake imbalance. Was an MOT advisory so in anticipation for this years MOT, both calipers were stripped and cleaned (very rusty so will replace later this year) and fitted new discs and pads. All purchased from BW, passed with flying colours this year!!

chriscburgess wrote:Thanks Blacky thats really helpful.

Just a question - you mention using copperslip. is this on the back or edges of the pads or the piston?

I am a little worried about putting any form of grease near the pads as i thought it would penetrate them and they would be shot.

chris

Just a smear on the metal back of the pads or if you prefer on the end of piston which conacts back of pad and also at ends of pads on metal backing ends but avoiding pad material which is grey "asbestos" like. I also put smear on flat surface of caliper that pads slide on as you push them in but only half way out from piston side of flat surface towards disc. The flat surfaces are top and bottom of the 4-5" square hole in caliper housing that pads fit into if that helps make sense ?

blacky wrote:

chriscburgess wrote:Thanks Blacky thats really helpful.

Just a question - you mention using copperslip. is this on the back or edges of the pads or the piston?

I am a little worried about putting any form of grease near the pads as i thought it would penetrate them and they would be shot.

chris

Just a smear on the metal back of the pads or if you prefer on the end of piston which conacts back of pad and also at ends of pads on metal backing ends but avoiding pad material which is grey "asbestos" like. I also put smear on flat surface of caliper that pads slide on as you push them in but only half way out from piston side of flat surface towards disc. The flat surfaces are top and bottom of the 4-5" square hole in caliper housing that pads fit into if that helps make sense ?

P.S. the grease won't penetrate the pads in the manner of soaking in and being absorbed like a sponge. any excess can be wiped off without any problem.

Great Thanks. I have already fitted the new pads (with some difficulty!) but think I will take them out again and do what you suggest.

chriscburgess wrote:I have already fitted the new pads (with some difficulty!)

What was the difficulty? They should just slot in easily, once the piston's pushed back. If they don't, then you'll probably need to clean up their homes. If pushing the piston back was a difficulty, then it'll explain the imbalance - you might need to start thinking about new calipers.

AdrianC wrote:

chriscburgess wrote:I have already fitted the new pads (with some difficulty!)

What was the difficulty? They should just slot in easily, once the piston's pushed back. If they don't, then you'll probably need to clean up their homes. If pushing the piston back was a difficulty, then it'll explain the imbalance - you might need to start thinking about new calipers.

Had to clean the calipers up a bit to get the new pads to slide in. Also used a g- clamp to wind the pistons back in fully. Now seem to be working ok. Tried a few emergency stops and it stops ok and in a straight line.