Club 80-90 Forums

Hi

Bit of advice if anyone has any? My name is andy living in France, I have a 82 high top westy joker with a 1.6D NA diesel. I have a problem with the eber not working and never has since we had the van, attached some photos of the controls etc. It is of course a D2 as of diesel. when i switch it to cooling fan the fan blows no problems, however when i switch to heating the green LED light comes on then the red LED starts flashing straight away and does nothing, both with engine on or not and on hook up. Took the heater plug out and tested and seem to have no voltage at the plug or on wires to it!!! The fuses behind drivers seat on pillar seems fine and got voltage there. Is there anything which maybe faulty on the eber first stopping the heater plug getting voltage or is the issue possibly with the wiring circuit to the heater plug and if so does it i guess go straight from the battery or via the eber control box etc??

Am getting it ready for its french MOT so doing brakes, new horn, new seat belt and so on and will also replace the broken fan why am at it so dashboard out, so parts ordered and will get done and hope through MOT OK.

However after passing that want to sort the eber out, keep the missus happy and warm and extend the camping season or hit the ski slopes and not freeze, so asking for any advice or ideas and input before i start if it could be something simple? Or will have to strip it all out and see what happens. No expert on these so any advice would be great.

then after that a wee but of rust starting to show on a seam so may give it the roller treatment.

Seems like it will be keeping me busy, but cannot wait for the sun again to arrive then we can get out and and get her used every weekend again.

Thanks for any input

Have you checked the fuse in the ecu? Value is marked on the ecu.

Yes when you say ECU do you mean the little silver box as in the photo, if so yes checked this also and is a small glass fuse i think 1.5A and this was fine also, just want to get some idea what to check first and go from there do not want to spend hours checking the wrong area possibilities. Would sooner work in a methodical way and seeing checking everyones advice as i am no expert on these ebers and am sure someone here is.

Thanks for your suggestion

Andy

I'm assuming here your heater is a standard Westy D2L rather than a D2.

Download the file here http://hotfile.com/dl/74447844/506485b/ ... L.pdf.html and it will have a few wiring diagams. There is also a troubleshooting guide but it is in German. I started trying to make a translation when I fixed mine a few years back but have not got that handy at the moment. There is also a Spanish translation here http://www.furgovw.org/index.php?PHPSES ... ic=11025.0 where I got the idea from. As I had an early (1983) van the test cable to substitute in place of the thermostat controller was easy to make from a few bits of wire.

You may need the model number of your heater from the casing if you can still read it to find out which wiring diagram to use. Looking at some of them there is a safety thermoswitch wired in series with the glowplug so if it has gone open circuit you won't see a voltage at the plug. The wiring inside the heater itself is not to hard to trace to check these components and on my early van the circuit board inside the heater was also simple to check as you could follow the tracks and test the resistors in situ.

What year is your van - you say it is an 82 but in your profile it shows 85? Reason I ask is that the 82 one will be like mine where the thermostat switches the heater off altogether when the van warms up. This has simpler wiring but the downside is it is hard on your battery as the glowplug needs to heat up again. The later ones just send a quarter of the pulses to the fuel pump just enough to keep it hot enough to quickly start up again when the stat next calls for heat.

Picture below shows the inside of mine showing one of the thermoswitches attached to the two white wires behind the glowplug. There is a similar one at the far end of the heater fed from wires in that heat sleeve. To test these are not open circuit just remove the wires and put a continuity tester over the two terminals the same as if you were testing a fuse.

I'm assuming here your heater is a standard Westy D2L rather than a D2.

Download the file here http://hotfile.com/dl/74447844/506485b/ ... L.pdf.html and it will have a few wiring diagams. There is also a troubleshooting guide but it is in German. I started trying to make a translation when I fixed mine a few years back but have not got that handy at the moment. There is also a Spanish translation here http://www.furgovw.org/index.php?PHPSES ... ic=11025.0 where I got the idea from. As I had an early (1983) van the test cable to substitute in place of the thermostat controller was easy to make from a few bits of wire.

You may need the model number of your heater from the casing if you can still read it to find out which wiring diagram to use. Looking at some of them there is a safety thermoswitch wired in series with the glowplug so if it has gone open circuit you won't see a voltage at the plug. The wiring inside the heater itself is not to hard to trace to check these components and on my early van the circuit board inside the heater was also simple to check as you could follow the tracks and test the resistors in situ.

What year is your van - you say it is an 82 but in your profile it shows 85? Reason I ask is that the 82 one will be like mine where the thermostat switches the heater off altogether when the van warms up. This has simpler wiring but the downside is it is hard on your battery as the glowplug needs to heat up again. The later ones just send a quarter of the pulses to the fuel pump just enough to keep it hot enough to quickly start up again when the stat next calls for heat.

Picture below shows the inside of mine showing one of the thermoswitches attached to the two white wires behind the glowplug. There is a similar one at the far end of the heater fed from wires in that heat sleeve. To test these are not open circuit just remove the wires and put a continuity tester over the two terminals the same as if you were testing a fuse.

http://letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/Eberspa ... lts_1.html

Run through this site - it will save people keep suggesting things back and forward.

Hi thanks for the replys, think I made a typo error it is an 85 model and mine looks like yours in the picture. Also thanks for the mail link looks interesting and will try various tests and see where i go, better get it through its mot first to have 2 more years hassle free camping. I will then turn my hands to the eber and possibly paint job.

Thanks again

Andy