Club 80-90 Forums

hi there. I have been told engine needs to come out to do clutch flywheel and or release bearing, saying that the Allen head bolts around the driveshafts are not accessible with the van in the air.

can anyone confirm this?

thanks.

I have been told engine needs to come out to do clutch flywheel and or release bearing

nope..

Gear box out, much easier

Gearbox every time. Don't forget those extra jobs that need doing at the same time ... starter bush, spigot bearing, lube the clutch actuation arm. Plus checking input shaft seal, front crankshaft oil seal, flywheel seal.

I would also weld M8 nuts under the slave cylinder mounting bracket while the box is out, also fit a longer earth strap away from the main bearing end casing and perhaps paint the box to prevent oxidisation.

Ian

^^^^^ as the others have said ^^^^^ gearbox out...not the engine and the driveshaft bolts are easily accessible.

Martin

Some nice PM pointers there Ian.

open call need some help, if there's anyone around with a bit of spare time in the near future to help me get this gearbox off so i can replace what needs replacing and if you can help me get it back on i would be very grateful. i need another pair of hands. very grateful for your help maybe pm me if you can help at all?

i have jacks and tools needed, alternatively, if there's anyone on the forum doing this job at the moment and not too far away maybe i can supervise and help out and get an idea of how to do it?

It really isn't difficult on your own, heavy and awkward ... yes but difficult no.

Ian Hulley wrote:It really isn't difficult on your own, heavy and awkward ... yes but difficult no.

Once you start it's done in short order.

Gearbox out is the best option. Had mine in & out twice last Friday?

Best with assistant when you remove box and install just to keep steady on jack.

Taking out the first time is the hardest. Clean down and soak all bolts with plus gas. Cracked driveshaft bolts with large mole grips before using allen key head in socket to take out bolts. Bolts will only come out when rotated to top, you will need to be able to turn wheels to rotate bolts into correct position. Cover drive shaft ends with plastic bags and tie up out of way with tie wraps. Try and get one drive shaft towards front and one towards back.
Remove clutch slave and tie back.
Remove starter motor. This also removes one of the bellhousing bolts
Disconnect reverse light switch cable.
Remove gear linkage bracket to gearbox and nut to lever arm and remove. Tie up out of way.
Put jack under gearbox in about centre.
Remove 4 bolts to front crossmember.
Lower box and engine so box will clear cross member. Place axle stand under engine to support.
Remove 3 bolts/nuts to bell housing 1 up 2 down.
Slide box away from engine then lower on jack. (This is when you need the assistant to steady)
Place 2nd bag on end of drive shafts and tape up. (You will find the first bags have been covered in more CV grease)

Clutch now accessible.

Skelton Quickfit Plc
i made up a shoe that fits to the underside of the box on the balance point and a 1" stub to sit in the jack (biggish workshop one) and this way its at the correct angle and cant fall etc , very easy one handed op
mm

MM

Send me a sketch of shoe. Will look at anything that makes it a quicker/easier job in case I have to do it again?

Jeff

Ian Hulley wrote:I would also weld M8 nuts under the slave cylinder mounting bracket while the box is out

Having just changed the slave, not sure that'd help matters much - especially the front one, under the union. The rear bolt went in from below, held in place by a finger in the back of the bracket as the slave went then the nut to hold it all, before the front bolt - again, facing upwards. Wasn't anywhere near as much of a PITA as expected.

AdrianC wrote:

Ian Hulley wrote:I would also weld M8 nuts under the slave cylinder mounting bracket while the box is out

Having just changed the slave, not sure that'd help matters much - especially the front one, under the union. The rear bolt went in from below, held in place by a finger in the back of the bracket as the slave went then the nut to hold it all, before the front bolt - again, facing upwards. Wasn't anywhere near as much of a PITA as expected.

That's not what you said earlier

AdrianC wrote:
As for those slave bolts - I'd love to get the git who designed that bracket and decided loose nuts perfect. You're right - captives welded to the bracket would make life SO much easier, especially the rear... At least whoever did ours last time put the front one in from below, so that the bolt comes out easily. Might try that with the rear one, so the bolt can go in before the slave, then hold it in with a finger, lower the slave onto it, and wind the nut on from above. Hmm...

Mocki wrote:

AdrianC wrote:

Ian Hulley wrote:I would also weld M8 nuts under the slave cylinder mounting bracket while the box is out

Having just changed the slave, not sure that'd help matters much - especially the front one, under the union. The rear bolt went in from below, held in place by a finger in the back of the bracket as the slave went then the nut to hold it all, before the front bolt - again, facing upwards. Wasn't anywhere near as much of a PITA as expected.

That's not what you said earlier

AdrianC wrote:As for those slave bolts - I'd love to get the git who designed that bracket and decided loose nuts perfect. You're right - captives welded to the bracket would make life SO much easier, especially the rear... At least whoever did ours last time put the front one in from below, so that the bolt comes out easily. Might try that with the rear one, so the bolt can go in before the slave, then hold it in with a finger, lower the slave onto it, and wind the nut on from above. Hmm...

<shrug>

The fundamental difference in those two is that one was written after removal but before refitting, and the other after refitting.

When I put it back in, I tried that last sentence out and found it worked very well. Putting the bolts in from above, into loose nuts sitting below, would have been utterly 'orrible. If the bolt hadn't gone in easily from below, then captives would have been the next-best, apart from the small detail of the boss for the pipe union.