Club 80-90 Forums

early (red) 1600, whats the draw with them running.
thers also a link someplace here for the stat replacement asd mine dont work and the on/off/cool switch is having a mind of its own
mm

I used the wiring diagram on this link when I fitted a new stat to my previous van. (new propex stat is around £50 )
http://www.propexheatsource.co.uk/pdf/P ... ns%232.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Can't help with the amp draw though

ta
mm

HS2800 has under 2A - so I would expect the smaller older ones to be roughly the same as they were not as energy efficient as the newer all singing and dancing models.

metalmick8y wrote:early (red) 1600, whats the draw with them running.
thers also a link someplace here for the stat replacement asd mine dont work and the on/off/cool switch is having a mind of its own
mm

I used a mechanical stat from B & Q to replace my buggered one

hmm, i may have more of a problem, i switch the heater on and all the lights function as they should, and the heater fires up ,the stat dial makes no odds to the functioning of the heater,
i decide to manualy switch the unit off and on doing so the red light goes out and the heater keeps a going, maybe 1 minute maybe 10 minutes then just stops,
another time i switch it off and it stops and as it should it runs again on fan only to cool the exchanger.
lastly it always works on fan alone.
so ,wjat do I need without spending 50 ish on a new switch / stat item
mm

I presume you have the propex stat, with dial and switch for hot, cold and off? Mine did a very similar thing, also sometimes would just not come on, then just fire up randomly. I found if I wiggled the stat it would work, so bought a new stat. I coughed up the £50 because I wanted the propex stat...
To prove it is/isn't the stat; from memory the heater gets the power, that then goes to the stat, then back to the heater to fire it up. So, you could remove the stat and just link the wires together to fire it up, part the wires and see if it goes straight to the cool down mode. If it carries on running, it can only be the pcb on the propex itself..
It's been a few years since I looked at one, but I'm pretty sure that's how it's wired up..
If the problem is the stat, any room stat with volt free switching (like a basic Honeywell ) will get you working, but you'll lose the cold air only function and the off switch (easily fixed with a on/off toggle switch)

I don't know it'll be any help but here's the post from when I was fixing my propex. If you've got an old circuit board with the two contactors on see if they're clean and working because they seemed to be the problem with mine.

Just fixed the thermostat on my propex - I found that when I pressed the switch (to turn heater on, or turn the fan on) it would sometimes work, sometimes not; then I found that if I wiggled the switch it would work/not work as I wiggled it.
Turned out that one of the solder joints on that switch was loose - basically pressing that switch puts a lot of force on the solder joints and looks like it works them loose over time - 10 secs with a soldering iron and it is back to full working order.
(Also note that one of the LED wires was also loose on the solder joint) - so worth taking a look at the circuit board.

FYI - I seem to recall that the current draw was meant to be around 1.6amps but my old propex is drawing slightly more than 2amps (probably due to the motor being a bit knackered)

BOXY wrote:I don't know it'll be any help but here's the post from when I was fixing my propex. If you've got an old circuit board with the two contactors on see if they're clean and working because they seemed to be the problem with mine.

where
and yes i will whip it off and take it apart, lloydy. your link is good as that will help no end
mm

Just finished installing my new Propex 2000. The draw at start up without gas ignition is 1.7 amps, once the gas is ignited that draw goes up to 2.2 amps.