Club 80-90 Forums

Ok - I know they had them on the old Jadwagen (is that how you spell it), but that was for brush protection and leaning your rifle on, more than actual roll over protection
But, I'm in the mood for some new seats and a set of harnesses - for the Bus Bus

Before anyone goes - why put a roll cage in a Bus - see here, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJ1hiFUH ... ata_player" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

OK got the idea now....

So I'm thinking Brace bar across the back of the cab under the window, then roll over hoops for each seat X over the back window also dropping down to the tops of the wheel arches or there abouts all internally.
Then out of the back of the cab onto the bed - two support bars plated to the internal hoop on the back of the cab

Has anyone been mental enough to build a race car spec T25 pickup before? I've seen the racetaxi - but not sure if that's caged??

Any advice - would be great, I don't expect everyone to understand, but you would give up your kettle and cozy bed if you'd seen the faces of the Ferrari owners on that track day at Castle Coombe

come on - anything?

check out the race taxi the t3 one with subaru power they fitted one, not the splitscreen van on t3 chassis

Built dozens of bars and cages and complete spaceframes, t25 ? well dont use the inner cab arches for anything cept a rolled up newspaper rest, internal fixture can be done easily if youve done them before,
B post to B post hoop, with the correct mods to the outriggers to carry them , support plate to seatbelt reel anchor points (relocate reel) front rails to follow door aperature and turn down to inside of A post and through to diagonal, support tie to bulkhead X box/pillar, I could go on , how far do you want to go, are your welding skills upto it , have you acess to the correct bender and can you use it, will it be a fixture built in situ etc etc
mm

have a look at customcages to see how far you want to go

http://www.customcages.co.uk/homepage" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Don't think I want to go forward, just a roll hoop with external, supports out back, got any piccys MM?

doka or single cab
mm

Single - check the pics on my profile and the vid above

in an ideal world - someone would have a lovely modelling program that I could just punch in the cab dimensions and mounting points and then it would give me mitre angles...
I'm going to fillet braze it, as I'm confident a good fillet will be very very strong (I'm not looking for any advice here - as is the norm , that's what I'm doing)

What do you recon on the best place for the uprights to be mounted?

I was going to brace across the seat belt mounting points upper - to make a harness bar - and mount to the inertia reel mounting points, but should I drop to the cab floor?
and where??
I guess Ideally it needs to be onto the chassis leg - which would be where the battery is sat - yes?

Hmm this is getting complex - might just go for a "show only" brace bar with single hoop to start, then I can add to it as the vehicle develops

Hmm,depends wether its your choice to fit as opposed to a requirement, if latter then copy of reg's appertaining to it would be required, if former then
if you require internal fit, (nice and discreet) then a hoop against the rear bulkhead affixed to mounts that have been fabricated up through the floor from the outrigger, then hoop can bolt down to this, as before a plate to locate through the belt reel to connect hoop to midpoint of post , this gives a lot of extra support. simply add a plate to the tube and tap out to receive the belt reel , you only need a diagonal from drivers side down to just above floor mount but this may be visible through the window so use a cross, again the diagonal is one pice from driverss side and the cut from the passengers.
to gain the rear supports, i would fabricate a plate just on the horizontal part of the top of the hoop near to the curve and this would sit against the rear bulkhead and be secured from the outside with a pair of csk screws, sealed to prevent water getting in ,
this plate could either be tapped to take 4 bolts (neatest) or have 4 studs protruding,
this way you can remove the rear legs as you wish,
supports for the rear legs as for any other, find solid steel and fabricate accordingly,
a time consuming job but could be made very nicely and be ultra discreet...
mm
just seen your reply, sorry I thought you wanted a serious roll hoop with correct mounts for your belts and such, so if you're brazing which i have been doing for over 40 yrs then im out of it,you dont braze a roll cage no matter how good you think it will be. good luck

I'd be more looking at going to a local roll cage company and getting them to make it, if the worst happens then at least you know its not been knocked up from the wrong welds or pipe etc, plus they're coded welders!

I can fillet braze, not the floppy flowy type - but the properly Fillet, taught by Brian Curtis type.
As far as I can see the only reason not to Fillet braze it to follow MSA regs - which for this structure, it wouldn't conform anyway, I'd guess??

You build cages MM?
Be cool to bend your ear with my thoughts - if you have the time, if not I completely understand
I can see why a properly Migged up cage could be stronger, but I'd like to make it myself - and make it pretty hence the Fillet

I guess the only real way to test it is to make the same joint up with both and then see which fails first, but from the experience I've had the tubing will always fail before the join

I've met some amazing people on here that have helped with my on-going project

Like Lance - who inspired me with the Scooby transplant and found me the motor
and Aiden, who did a top job of building me a box strong enough for 250bhp and tall gears for motorway cruising - not to mention the diff lock