Club 80-90 Forums

Hi guys,

I was wondering if anyone here can tell me how strong & reliable the Syncro is.

I'm looking for a camper that could take me to North Norway. A round trip of about 5000miles. Temperatures are probably down to -50C.
My first thoughts were to fuse a T25 with something like a landcruiser.

Thoughts please

Ask VoodooPenguin on here. He's driven his plain old T25 camper (ie. non-Syncro) to the Arctic Circle. There's a post about it on General Threads, and he's got his own blog as well. I read a website the other day where some guy had driven that same route in an ordinary car (it was a Fiat 500), and it sounded like it's paved roads all the way. Not quite the trek I had imagined. Try typing 'Norway in a Fiat 500' into google.

Strong yes, reliable yes in theory at least..depends on maintainence and history..most stuff is simple to fix and access is good to most areas...I think the secret would be to carry as many spares as possible ( full gearbox?) and a well planned tool kit, and give the whole vehicle a very good going over beforehand, it's the small things that can stop you in your tracks such as wipers not working or even demisters failing can cause real hassle if the screen keeps freezing up for example.

What engine have you got? More to go wrong on the petrols in my view...some may not agree!

Hi. I live in northern Norway. Right on the Arctic Circle. We right now we have -7C. In january/february we sometimes see -20C and in the mountains and inner valleys you can se -30C or a few degrees lower. The lowest temperature I´ve heard of in Norway is -47C in a high inland valley. The last few weeks we´ve had temps around -15C. Chances are you wont see lower temps than around -20, usually higher. Driving a syncro doka as my daily I can report that gearshifts and steering starts to feel slow and "syrupy" already at those temps. At least until the engine and gearbox are at normal operating temps. Make sure you have fresh fluids and that the entire gearshift linkage is well lubricated.

There are VW dealers and competent garages all over the country. As well as T3 idiots like myself. Might be a good idea to introduce yourself and your plans in the english section of the norwegian forum: http://www.vwbus.no/forum/viewforum.php?f=69

Any questions regarding travelling in Norway?

I am sure taigagreen will agree but you will need a coolant heater at the very least especially if you have a diesel. Also depends a lot on what conversion you have.

Jed

Ive spent a little bit of time in a T3 around temperatures very similar to these in and around the Italian Dolomites and French alps. Anywhere between -10 and -25 was pretty common place day to day.

I didn't have any trouble starting my engine despite a friend of mine not being able to start his modern Hilux. Biggest issues were getting the doors open if there had been any kind of condensation between the seals and my hand brake cables continually freezing solid. I don't know if this would have been a problem with standard brake cables or not, but it was certainly an issues with the cables i have with a rear disc conversion.

jed the spread wrote:I am sure taigagreen will agree but you will need a coolant heater at the very least especially if you have a diesel. Also depends a lot on what conversion you have.

Jed

Well if your glowplugs are allright, you shouldnt have a problem. JX and AAZs ususally generate enough heat to warm up the car properly. TDIs tend not to but all Scandinavian TDIs have a coolant heater that starts when the temp is about +5C. Or are you thinking of the Eberspächer/Webasto kind to heat up your car before you start it? Both are nice and a comfy solution. But not necessary if timing, and glowplugs are ok.

v-lux wrote:Ive spent a little bit of time in a T3 around temperatures very similar to these in and around the Italian Dolomites and French alps. Anywhere between -10 and -25 was pretty common place day to day.

I didn't have any trouble starting my engine despite a friend of mine not being able to start his modern Hilux. Biggest issues were getting the doors open if there had been any kind of condensation between the seals and my hand brake cables continually freezing solid. I don't know if this would have been a problem with standard brake cables or not, but it was certainly an issues with the cables i have with a rear disc conversion.

Clean all door seals and treat them with silicone or similar. That should get you through a winter. My hand brake cables also freeze, on standard brakes. Can be treated with lubricating the entire cable, I should...

taigagreen wrote:

jed the spread wrote:I am sure taigagreen will agree but you will need a coolant heater at the very least especially if you have a diesel. Also depends a lot on what conversion you have.

Jed

Well if your glowplugs are allright, you shouldnt have a problem. JX and AAZs ususally generate enough heat to warm up the car properly. TDIs tend not to but all Scandinavian TDIs have a coolant heater that starts when the temp is about +5C. Or are you thinking of the Eberspächer/Webasto kind to heat up your car before you start it? Both are nice and a comfy solution. But not necessary if timing, and glowplugs are ok.

Jed

pfield69 wrote:Hi guys,

I was wondering if anyone here can tell me how strong & reliable the Syncro is.

I'm looking for a camper that could take me to North Norway. A round trip of about 5000miles. Temperatures are probably down to -50C.
My first thoughts were to fuse a T25 with something like a landcruiser.

Thoughts please

My son did this trip a few years ago in a standard Passat 4motion. All he did to the car was fit winter tyres, VW Northern Europe spec antifreeze and a new battery. Its not Siberia you're going to - its Nordkapp! Go via Sweden - you'll find it cheaper!

Syncros are strong and as reliable as you make them. Good preparation beforehand is the key. 5,000 miles by the way, is not a lot of miles ..... sounds like an average month's driving to me!

Out of interest, here are our Norweigan members

andrew Kristiansand, South Norway
excit Norway
RuneK Hvaler, Norway
cranz Norway
Karmann Norway
patrick Norway, Bergen/Oslo/Kristiansand-Norway
Totto Norway
taigagreen Norway
mags Kongsberg, Norway
arctic-syncro Mo i Rana - Norway
ThorAlex Norway
pitufinavikinga Norway
noggintom Oslo, Norway
sunshine_norway Nordland, Norway
JensM Norway, Osloish.
terje Trondheim, Norway
syklist Gol, Buskerud Norway
VonZu Rogaland, Norway
Livar Norway
avdem Stryn, Western Norway
LostValleyBoy Stavanger, Norway
Aleksander Fredrikstad, Norway
PoorLeno Baerum, Norway

Ollie Norway

And Ollie

Jed

I'd like one of those coolant heaters. The one thing I miss about the AAZ is the almost instant heat. The TDI takes around 15 mins to get anything worth turning the fan on for

Wow, thanks for the information guys.

At present I have a converted transporter 1.9 water cooled petrol.

I was expecting harsher conditions.

This is just the start of my plan. Aiming for next winter. Not sure of what my target destination would be but as far north as I can go without swimming.

This is what I was gong to make http://www.flickr.com/photos/graffig/61 ... otostream/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

lloydy wrote:I'd like one of those coolant heaters. The one thing I miss about the AAZ is the almost instant heat. The TDI takes around 15 mins to get anything worth turning the fan on for

Have you come across the heater device fitted on some TDIs in the coolant flange? I have one on my pickup but not wired it up yet, it's just 3 glow plugs controlled by the ecu but could be on a switch for simplicity wired via split charge relay so it can only heat when the engine is running...