Club 80-90 Forums

I've got a few areas of rust on my van and want to treat them until the time is right (I've got the money) to get them sorted properly, I was recommended Finnegan's rust beater and understand that is now part of the Hammerite range, can someone confirm if that's the best thing to use and let me know what it's called now so that I buy the right stuff.
Any other tips on rust treatment would also be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Barn

Most people use Vactan.

I'm possibly Vactan's most vocal champion on here but what many fail to grasp is that putting a coat of Vactan on rust will not stop it, nor will any rust treatment. The trick is in spending all your time on cleaning the area to as much bright shiny metal as possible and ensuring that BOTH sides of the metal are dealt with otherwise your efforts will be short-lived. Ideally (Metalmickey will agree) you should cut out rust altogether but this is not always practical. In short, spend hours on dealing with the area in terms of cleaning and spend a few seconds giving a thin coat of rust treatment - then pray.

If you want to be really sure, sort the rust, drive around for 12 months with vactan everywhere like a spotted dalmation and then see if it has stopped the rust. If it has, repaint the van.

I must admit that over the years I have tried all types of rust treater and Vactan does seem to be one of the best. The coating does seem to give an impervious seal stopping the moisture restarting the rusting process. A lot of them just use the acid to convert the rust and it is up to you to provide the moisture resistant coating.

I quite like the 'leopard' look.

Yes, rust isn't personal it's just a chemical process.
once the process is broken (removal of oxygen usually) the process will stop even if the van looks like a sea pier leg.
There is no need to remove rust to stop the process...just the oxygen

these rust converters will only penetrate a few atoms in, and I don't think they are the entire answer.

The underlying ingredient of Vactan is tannin, long known for its properties in terms of converting rust - yes the same stuff found in tea! Leave a wet teabag on rust to see what I mean. Vactan is tannic acid suspended in an organic polymer so it converts the rust then starves the area of oxygen by leaving a water-impervious layer on top.

Vactan does the job no worries but you only need one very thin coat so only ever order the smallest bottle. Extra layers do not make a better job and you'll just create a rubbery surface that is harder to prep for paint. It also has a shelf life of 9 months to one year only so old bottles should be discarded and a new one ordered the next time. The dalmation trick is a good way to deal with the rust cos if you have more deep-rooted corrosion it will show through again. If it remains stable you can paint it safely.

Never tried it but I reckon tannic acid available from home-brew stores, mixed into a clear acrylic paint would do the same job. At least two years ago I painted the bolt on a garden gate that was incredibly rusty, with a coat of vactan and it has remained rust-free ever since. Required no subsequent paint at all. Looks the same as the day I did it.

This explains it in more detail including how to deal with the surface: http://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Conver ... W48C2.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

For removing rust from parts, this works well: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4yYF8gSHdA" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks all, some really useful stuff in the replies.

Now I'd better get working on it!

going to try it this weekend