Club 80-90 Forums

Hi Folks,

Started the above by cutting off the bottom of the door, plug welding a strip of metal to the edge of the outer skin and then tacking the outer skin repair panel into place.
Also needs some repair to the inner section which I'll continue working on tomorrow.

Having nothing much of the lower door left I'm assuming that the outer skin is folded over the inner along the bottom edge and the sides. Absolutely no idea how to do this!!.
Have seen a tool in the frost catalogue which looks like it's for this job, but do I need to buy it and is there a tried and tested way.
Spent a fair bit of time on this getting even gaps all around etc, and don't want to mess it up now.

Can't post pics at the mo cos camera's duff so I hope someone knows what I'm on about.

Cheers

Wookster

Page 4 and 5 on my thread has a bit of info on the sliding door if it helps. I don't remember folding the bottom bit over and it fits nicely. Jon.

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 4&start=60" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks for the reply, I read your thread a while ago.
I think for safety etc I need to fold it over, just don't know how.
Gonna practice on some scrap for now and see how it goes.

Well here's a few pics of progress so far. Ignored folding over the lip for now.

Here's what I started with after cutting off the rust.
Using about half of the JK repair panel for both inner and outer sections of the door.
Plug welding a strip onto the door skin so that the new section can have something to sit on.



Here's the new section cut to size. Used the new panel as a guide for length and then cut it a bit on the large side to allow for tweaking.



Held it in place with a couple of clico's and made final adjustments before starting welding.





Ground it down.



And a bit of weld through primer to protect it, too late for grinding now so will finish the welding tomorrow.



Any ideas on folding the lip please, practised on bits of scrap using a bit of wood for support and the results are ok but could be better.

Can anyone advise me please where exactly the bottom edge of the door is supposed to fit.



Just put the door back on and on the left hand side the door looks as though it would fit over the groove, and on the right like it would fit inside. Didn't have any door bottom when I started so no idea at all!!.
Maybe there's supposed to be a rubber seal there, again don't have anything.

HELP (can't find a begging one)

I'd suspect the water would run down inside the groove if it was to sit there and cause more rot, I'm sure it goes over.

There should be a seal there too, it fits inside a grove that's about 1cm wide-ish.

Jon.

Hi Folks,

Need a pic of a good door opening, and if a seal should be there then details please.
Should be able to open up the bottom lip far enough to fit outside the channel, just need to know how far.

Cheers
Wookster

Well decided I'm going to start again from scratch, not quite sure where I've gone wrong but the bottom edge has a definite banana shape to it. Both ends are fine but the middle is hitting the groove where the seal fits and pushing the door outwards.

Used an old JK panel first time round which came with the van so no real expense involved just lost time. Still it's all experience.

At this point I'm assuming that the problem has been caused when I folded over the lip, maybe more was folded over in the middle and that's what's pulled it in. Bottom edge is straight though where its folded over.
Will have a closer look when I've cut it off and try to figure out what went wrong.

Any ideas welcome at this point.

see here page 2 for the door itself
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 6&start=15" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
may be runner stuff further on i cant remember, i will post a few picks on the ajitvagon later these will show the lower seal area that is missing on yours also if you check out boatbuilders https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=72888" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; its long winded in an Irish way seriously though he has /is just doing the slider track so its fresh ,its towards the end of the posting
mm

Cheers mm,

From your reply I can see a couple of idiot/newbie mistakes I've made, first being not checking the door fit with the inner skin repaired. Won't know until its removed tomorrow but with hindsight I think it's a bit short, I matched "features" with the repair panel and assumed it was correct .

From memory the JK new outer repair panel is slightly different from yours which appears to reach about half way across the swage line, mine just reaches the swage line by about 3mm. Don't know if this matters.
Either way once I've fettled the inner skin (buying new if needed) It will definitely get a dry fit, and I'll decide the cut line from there or return the panel if its a dud
Will post a pic shortly if I can sort out some decent lighting, camera has gone duff so having to use camcorder (no flash).

Second mistake is more puzzling - the banana shaped door.

Here's the pics,





Have to see tomorrow if it fits.

sorry for delay but picked some shallotts today and made chilli gravy and a few of these for munchies dressed with paprika


Ahh a klocker panal,shy** still thats not the real problem.
what do you mean by 'bannana' there is a very slight curve fr-rr,
is it early or late door, if latter then fit another door, failing that then buy an inner rep panal and tack this on in the place you ascertain to be correct, then fit the door without the outer skin and you can then check all the alignments, a common problem is to fit the inner and have it so it is curved in too much, that is it hist the floor/seal area,
next lip the bottom of the outer skin to 90', hammer and dolly or spade grips and then tack this on, then back to fitting it, as you know it only take 15 secs to rehang .
when you think its right then fit the seal and try again.
you should get the door so that it is correct in all planes and gaps are nice.
you can fit it into the swage or below it or whatever, choice is up to how you feel
mm

Glad me supper is on mate otherwise I'd be well hungry.
It's a 1980 so doors are a bit scarce, no idea what the difference is btw.
Going to follow your advice to the letter and will see how I get on.
Problem like you say is a curve F-R, won't happen this time cos I'm going to brace the inner panel before I round the lip over. Not sure how yet and with experience I'm sure its not necessary.

Is there a particular source for panels you rate, been going with JK's so far cos that's what came with the van.

Many thanks for your advice

you shouldnt really induce a f-r curve unless the inner is curved. any how jk supply a lot of klock panals and i have had bad journeys with them in fact worse than some in the 60-70' but some panals they supply are fine, take the lower outer sill on the fridge side , its really well made and out of good steel there again so is the schofields one (prob same maker )
i use schofield for most general pattern bits or source genuine etc, though not much use to you for this bit.secret bit take time and tack , never aqssume anything
mm

Spent a few hours this afternoon cutting off the replacement door skin and re-aligning the inner skin.
When I'd originally welded it in, I'd introduced too much of a curve.
Now it fits more like it should and even after fitting the old seal which I managed to find doesn't pinch too much.



Despite my best efforts the door doesn't align perfectly everywhere due to historical accident damage, so I can only do the best I can and long term hope to find a replacement.





I've test fitted the outer repair panel by overlaying it and it aligns pretty good at the front, no idea at the rear cos the bottom of the rear wing has rotted away.
My project for the weekend is to re-build the bottom of the rear wing and then to fit the outer repair skin to the door. Going to have to make the swage by hand so if it takes longer or many attempts then so be it.
So long as the exterior of the door looks ok and aligns ok I'll consider it a good result, got to be better than my last attempt.

Certainly glad I've got a few clico's to hand makes trial fitting panels a lot easier, funny feeling I'm going to need em along with some patience.

Many thanks Mike for pointing me to your pics as to how it should be done.