Club 80-90 Forums

The wife was driving the van this afternoon and it broke down again. It's linked to my intermittent electrical fault https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=106880. AA man thinks it needs a new fusebox. Anyway, when he got it started (not sure how as the wife wasn't paying attention!!), he said it was a bit noisy. he sprayed some sort of spray on the inlet manifolds and then told the wife that the right hand one was leaking. Apparently, when he sprayed his spray (no idea what sort of spray, anyone know?) onto the inlet manifold gasket, the engine note changed and even the wife agreed that it sounded sweeter. I've always thought it sounds sweet!. Anyway, we're going on holiday on Sunday. Is it worth changing the inlet manifold gaskets before then? If so, is it a straightforward job? Are the bolts as much trouble as exhaust bolts?

Thanks all

Rob

...and the engine is....

Check the earth crowns behind the fusebox, you'll have to take the fusebox off, but it's only a few screws (disconnect the battery first). Don't disconnect anything, just ease the fusebox away from the bulkhead. I seem to recall it being a lot easier on a RHD van as you've got more room to work. You might have to take the glovebox off (if you have one).

Give the earths a wiggle, any that slip off, or look corroded, replace.


As for the inlet(s), I'm assuming it's a 2l Aircooled, as you said "carbs" plural?

I think you can get the manifolds off without removing the engine, but access to the nuts is going to be a pig. They won't be rusted like the exhaust would, so if you can get to them then you've won half the battle.

Take good notes of where everything goes before touching the carbs, particularly the vacuum lines.

Sorry! Forgot to engage brain! Its a 1.9 DG. Haynes says remove carb but that is to change the manifold heater. Can I lift the while lot up in one go? Thanks.
Rob

Don't know where I read "carbs", but it certainly wasn't your post

...and I've only had half a beer so far this evening...

Forget what I've said above about the inlet, never worked on a DG.

Fuse stuff still applies though, at least if you have the early fusebox.

It will be a bit awkward to manipulate / move the manifold clear of the cylinder head, due to the number of hoses and stuff attached to the manifold,

but yes, I would just loosen the bolts that hold the manifold to each of the inlets.

There are two bolts on each end if I remeber correctly.

You will not lose any coolant etc, like you would in 90% of other vehicles just by lifting the manifold clear of the cylinder heads.

Only loosen the good side enough to allow you to lift the manifold clear of the side with the faulty gasket.
You do not want to disturb the good gasket too much, otherwise you'd need to change that one too. Although - changing both now will save having to do the other one at a later date.

Obviously ensure that all traces of the old gasket are cleaned off before fitting the new one.

Then bolt down both arms of the manifold onto their respective cylinder heads to the correct torque.

Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a go. Gaskets ordered from brickwerks. I should have known it was leaking as it sounds like a mechanic pricing a job (sucking air through teet
I'll also clean the crowns as a start as a new fuse box is ninety quid!
Rob

I'm having second thoughts about replacing the inlet manifold gaskets before I go on holidays on Sunday in case I break a bolt on the manifold. Would I get away with smearing Gun Gum around the joint as a temporary measure?
Cheers
Rob.

A slather of goop will just give you a bigger job to change since you'll need to get it all clean again.

If the van's running ok, I'd leave it alone, but carry the gaskets in case.

Hi,

Air leak here = unmetered air enters engine = engine runs 'lean' = engine runs hotter. Depeneds how big the hole is as to how lean it runs, and if the temprature increase is an issue (bear in mind the volumes of air at full throttle are large, so so small leaks aren't likely to have a massive impact. Air leaks tend to make themeslves felt at low speeds as the relative amount of extra air entering is much higher).

Don't smear any sort of goo over the holes, it is more likely to get sucked into the inlet mainfolds than do any good, plus as Adrian notes it will make changing them harder in the future!

Removing any bolts on these vans has a risk associated with it, but these are not immersed in liquid like the head studs, nor are they subject to extreme temperatures like exhaust studs, so shouldn't be too much of a hassle to remove. You'd be unlucky to break anything!

I'd take the chance and change them, but thats because I can't bear to let things stay broken once I know about them!

Cheers,

Alex

I've done this job twice, it is not one to be too worried about, I would do it now personally. Enforce you go away as well as checking earths. Firstly soak inlet manifold studs/nuts in plusgas liberally overnight. In morning any worries you had about studs breaking ( I agree with others that the inlet studs are not risky like exhaust ones) then do your job noting what goes where...., 40 mins total job I recon even with caution. Better now than at the back if your mind on a rural holiday road. Tim

Thanks for all the advice and encouragement. I have loosened all four bolts. So far so good until the rain started!
Cheers.
Rob.

Rain under your tailgate?
VW engine tinkering is never subjected to "rain stopped play"

Wuss...

Cheers Kev! That was all the encouragement I needed. All done.sounds sweet.
Cheers
Rob.