Club 80-90 Forums

Stupid question time

If I were to get Prpex fitted, would I need a separate gas bottle for it or can it run off the same supply as the cooker?

same supply, it'll just run out a lot quicker

ive got propex fitted and use propane on both

Yep it runs off the same bottle. I binned the usual "907" sized bottle and use the 4.5 kg Butane or in winter the 3.9kg Propane (less likely to freeze) cylinders, they work out A LOT cheaper. Tip = if those cylinders are a bit too tall to fit, you can unbolt the ring around the top. Keep the bits safe of course for when you need another bottle !

I will be fitting a recently Re-Conned Propex heater in Autumn

My question is = where is the best place to best type of place to get the gas piping and "T" junction etc ?

Secondly, assuming I use common sense, secure the piping safely, test the olive joints (washing up liquid ?) etc, is it feasible to do this ones self, or is that madness and one should pay a caravan place or similar to install it ?

BES plumbing supplies is a good online place for fittings. As for doing the work yourself, it is legal to carry out gas work in your own property, so it depends how competent you are?

Thanks. next questions:

What is a far price for a second hand Propex heater (1600) —

and should a second hand system be sent to Propex for testing ?

iirc propex and ebers are cheaper in the summer so get your skates on

1600 can go from £150 to £300 depending on the excitabiliy of the bidsers.

Sometimes those big X1 boxes are cheaper but they are about 20 years old and use imperial fitments

centro wrote:Thanks. next questions:

What is a far price for a second hand Propex heater (1600) —

and should a second hand system be sent to Propex for testing ?

I bought mine for £100 but that was off a friend. Ebay is your friend. Mine needed a new motor but Propex were VERY good to deal with and a new motor was around £50 fitted, plus P&P. They did check the rest over and it then came back to me with a guarantee that all was well with the rest of it. imho though, if it works correctly when YOU test it, I personally would be happy with that. I stripped mine down (before sending it to them) in an attempt to fix the seized up motor, they are very simple inside. The design is "fail safe" so if it works, you know the flame and heat sensors (safety cut outs) ARE working etc etc (or it won't light / stay alight).

If you take the covers off, be aware they have to be replaced using silicone sealant on most of the mating surfaces to isolate the 3 main "chambers" inside. This means that on removing the covers there is a fiddly job of removing ALL the old silicone sealer and replacing it on re-assembly.

Don't forget to factor in the air inlet and exhaust outlet piping, that is quite expensive to buy (forget how much but at least £30 worth of pipe and clamps.

I have shy'd off fitting mine so far as drilling 3" holes in the floor of my van fills me with dread ! Then there is the gas plumbing to fit too. The wiring however is very simple (ask me if you need advice on that).