Club 80-90 Forums

Hello all, it's my first visit to these parts to ask a question so hopefully I can get some guidance. My nice MOT man has just reported...

Reason(s) for refusal to issue Certificate

Nearside Rear Brake hose ferrule excessively corroded (3.6.B.4e)

Front to rear Brake pipe excessively corroded (3.6.B.2c)

Advisory Notice issued

Offside Rear Brake hose has slight corrosion to ferrules (3.6.B.4e)

Nearside Front Brake hose has slight corrosion to ferrules (3.6.B.4e)

Offside Front Brake hose has slight corrosion to ferrules (3.6.B.4e)

All steel metal brake pipes at front are slightly corroded in places

I live in Brighton and have not got a local garage sorted yet to do the work but have seen the copper/nickel brake pipe kit at VW Heritage http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Bra ... tartPage=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and I wonder if the best approach is to order this now to get the whole system sorted rather than take a piecemeal approach fixing the fails but leaving the advisory. Will that kit do the whole job?

I'd like to get it sorted by next Friday - any recommendations on a decent place to get it done within 40 miles of Brighton?

Thanks

Scott

scott, try dougs vw werks in arundel not used him myself, but gets lots of good recommendations, baldy

Hi Scott

Used to live in Brighton and know of a great VW mechanic - seems to know his stuff.... I can't for the life of me remember his name but he's by the viaduct - i think on the corner of Argyle Rd and Campbell Road... you should spot various VWs around! Think its next to a little tyre place

Thank you both. I'll do some research.

Any ideas on that brake pipe kit? I've read that more often perhaps people make new pipes using the old pipes as a template. But if premade then even if £70 for the lot may be a better bet....

Yes it is usual to make up your own, it gives you some routing options when it comes to fitting. But those pipes are probably right according to the VW lengths but if ones too short you are knacked. Find your garage first and ask them, they may prefer to make them up. To follow the original route exactly its a fuel tank out and gearbox, although you can (if making your own pipes) take a different route and avoid those cans of worms.

Hacksawbob wrote:To follow the original route exactly its a fuel tank out and gearbox, although you can (if making your own pipes) take a different route and avoid those cans of worms.

I have been contemplating changing my brake lines too and the thought of dropping the fuel tank has put me off, the "take a different route" hadn't occurred to me but is blindingly obvious now you mention it!!!!

My local motor factor makes up brake pipe lengths for me, I have been told the cheaper brake flaring kits are not too good so have always just asked them to make up whatever length of pipe I need.

I would replace all the pipes if they are corroded, you can never be too careful where brakes are concerned.

Nev

I have done the clutch pipe without removing the tank, you need to make sure handbrake cable isn't going to collide. Its a good idea to have a p-clip prior to the tank and one after, I head scratched for a while and in the end the one to the rear of the tank had to just go through the floor of the camper before taking the turn to fix it to the chassis rail, you could use a rivet for this to minimise the intrusion to the interior.