Club 80-90 Forums

And it still won't fire

Just get a dull click. Also think the barrel is heading for collapse altho it was replaced 3 years ago.

What now? I don't think it's the starter motor as it was hot starting using a screw driver across the connections.

Bit gutted, thought I'd done my first fix with the help of the wiki !

ok, so you can "short" accross the connections that plug onto the ignition switch and it works?
but the switch isnt working?
either the plug has a duff connector in it, or the "new" ignition switch is also duff??

On the old ignition switch I could short it because one of the connectors was missing.
I can't do that now as all the connectors are present so I can't get a screwdriver in there.

If I attach the old switch to the plug all the ignition lights etc come on!!

So does that mean its a dodgy connection in the plug?

And I can't get the ignition key out the barrel now!!!

TravellingChick wrote:And it still won't fire
I don't think it's the starter motor as it was hot starting using a screw driver across the connections.

The above implies that there is a good enough feed and earth but the switching of the solenoid is suspect. Afterall, by shorting it this way you are just eliminating the solenoid contacts and feed to the solenoid.
The most common issue is the spade connection to the solenoid...or should I say, the last 2 - 3 inches of wire that internally corrode and blacken with age.
The common repair is to cut a couple of inches off and re-terminal (if the wire is long enough.)

I suppose the contacts in the solenoid could also be suspect but this would require a new solenoid (if they can be purchased seperately?)

I would still check all the obvious things AS WELL...earth strap on the gearbox tail end, battery terminals and braided earth strap, the battery itself....and for slow cranking, the oilite bush that supports the starter ends (housed in the bell housing and costing under £2.00)

Martin

so lets get this straight......
you changed the ignition switch because the old one was physically broken, with a connection missing?
and now you dont get any ignition lights and only a click from the starter ??

did you say somewhere the new one is different in some way???

cant see it being the signal wire at the solenoid end if the above is true, unless you had two problems?

I'm confused as well.......

Hi folks, been talking to sarah

the white switch has been replaced. The plastic one held on with a screw

From what she told me, the original one had 5 pins, the new one has 6. The old switch had no space for a 6th pin.

The barrell has been out before as she has the tell-tale hole in the mounting.

Have pointed her in this direction as she is currently outside negotiating with Tink!!

Em
xx

Key was sticking in barrel, and there were reports that the barrel came away from the mounting - but this was third party, so Sarah is not entirely sure what happened. But starts very easily with the screwdriver!

Okay!! Here's the whole story:

The ignition barrel collapsed 3 years ago and was replaced. At the same time I re-conned the starter motor brushes etc.
No ignition issues since.
Lent van to friend (I know!) and following morning this problem presented.
Dash lights yes, click yes, engine igniting no.
He called breakdown and guy hot started using a screwdriver. Guy said ignition switch. Friend went to Elite and got new switch but didn't fit it. Brought can home.
I've fitted new switch and problem still exactly the same. Dash lights, click but no ignition.
Old switch has 5 connectors, 4 wide and 1 skinny.
New switch has 6 connectors, 4 wide and 2 skinny.
The key is sticky in the barrel with the either switch in and smooth in the barrel without a switch.

I can connect the old switch to the plug without any contact with ignition and get the same dash lights and click.

If I connect the new switch in the same way I get nothing!!!

Thanks Em. There is a space for the extra skinny connector on the old switch - I just thought it had got busted off.

How does hot starting via the contacts on the ignition switch bypass the solenoid?

I need to replace my ignition switch, (I loose occasionally headlights)
The extra contact on some ign switches is for a "key in" function, ie the small pin goes live as soon as you put the key in,

T

Oooh that's interesting. Only 4 of the female connectors have wires coming from them.
I just wish I could get a quick fix as the camper is my daily driver

TravellingChick wrote:How does hot starting via the contacts on the ignition switch bypass the solenoid?

It doesn't.....I'm afraid I misunderstood what you had written 'I don't think it's the starter motor as it was hot starting using a screw driver across the connections.

The more I read the more I am inclined to believe you have several problems and not just the one.
Poss faulty barrel and drive to the switch.
Poss faulty new switch.
and still possible issues with earths and or feed wires to the starter.

I know thats not very helpful but you need to elliminate each, one at a time.

Have you tried directly powering the starter motor from battery to starter terminal (braided side) and then shorting to the solenoid...a bit tricky to do but would elliminate the motor itself from being a possible cause.
Martin