Club 80-90 Forums

I'm currently in the process of replacing this pipe (after an mot fail on it) and trying to do it without dropping the petrol tank (due to time pressure i.e. trying to complete the job in time for mot re-test next on 20th). I've got a length of new cunifer pipe in place now and just need to finish bending it to shape and then flare it.

Is it ok to deviate slightly from the route that vw used for this pipe, or does it have to be replaced exactly as originally fitted? The section between the brake pressure regulator and the petrol tank seems to take a complicated route with lots of bends in it. I've threaded the pipe along a more simple route for this part of it's journey so I'm wondering if it's ok to do this as long as the pipe is well secured?

Cheers

Tony

So long as it gets from A-B without rubbing against anything it's fine afaik. There's not a lot of options with all the other stuff going above the tank though, make sure the handbrake cable doesn't collide.

you can replace part of it and join old pipe to new with proper conections get yourself a portable brake pipe maker only around £20 great investment.

Yup...hand brake cable and the gear change rod going back & forth, side to side.
I did mine without removing the tank, then 9 months later replaced the petrol tank because of corrosion and at the same time properly fastened the brake pipe I had done earlier. That's not to say I hadn't done a reasonable job initially but...without the tank removed you are really guessing...just be careful.

Joining new Cunifer to old 'steel' pipe can be more difficult than it sounds. The Cunifer is nice and maluble and the old steel stuff is very hard and difficult to flare.
Martin

No problem in joining to steel pipe, you just need to know that you need to anneal the pipe first, once it's annealed it flares just fine.

That's good news, thanks very much for all the info. I'm not joining the cunifer to the steel pipe, but that had been my original plan until I found another section of corroded steel pipe at the front end of the van. So I'm now running a new length of pipe from the brake pressure regulator all the way along to the 3-way connector for the back brakes.

I've still got a week to do it before the re-test, so plenty of flaring practice in the shed and a hand-held flarer is on it's way to me, just hoping the weather to stays dry!

Tony

California Dreamin wrote:Yup...hand brake cake and the gear change rod going back & forth, side to side....without the tank removed you are really guessing...just be careful.

I'll be very careful. I like having brakes! Might drop the petrol tank once the re-test is out of the way so that I've got plenty of time to address any tank issues that I might discover.

Simon Baxter wrote:No problem in joining to steel pipe, you just need to know that you need to anneal the pipe first, once it's annealed it flares just fine.

I never thought of that Simon.....

Same here...just went all the way...if you are going to do it then it's worth the extra efort.

Martin

All done and mot'd for another year Had lots of fun trying to replace the pipe clips in some rather inaccessible places, good job that I haven't got Popeye's arms and hands!

If I was having to do this job all over again I think I'd be tempted to use copper pipe rather than cunifer. Lots of bending involved with this pipe and copper seems easier to bend than cunifer, imho.

Tony

Indeed.....I agree, copper pipe is much more maluable and easier to manipulate around all those bends. Cunifer is marginally better if you have clear access.

Martin