Club 80-90 Forums

got a bus (1.9dg) in for service and a few other jobs all done and went pretty well apart from the oil change!
back-pedal a bit - engines covered in oil and the waterpump has failed but it hasnt got hot at all (it was noticed as the guy was leaving so prob running 5 mins if that) so after changing pump i degrease the engine and rinsed it off with a hose.when thats done i take it up and down the lane a few times to make sure heater works and its not overheating. all good there. next up is the oil change. take off sump plug and let it drain while i change oil and air filters then fit a new fanbelt. put the sump plug back in and fill up with four litres straight off leaving it 5 or so mins before checking level. little over top mark but hey ho it'll go down when the oil filter fills. another 5 or so mins later and the oil levels the same so off we go up and down the lane a few more times and the level drops a little. fine i thinks i'll leave it outside while i mess with other stuff. few hours later and the level is still the same. bus gets put back in for the night and we'll see whats what the next day. sunday arrives and the bus goes straight out up and down the lane topped up oil back to top mark and its left for the rest of the day and put away again at night. so just over 4 litres has gone in.

went up tonight to get bus so chap can have it back,and what can only be the tappets are rattling there t*ts off like theres no oil in the engine at all! took it out for drive tonight maybe 20 mins or so and still they rattle! i shouldnt have to bleed hydraulic shims after an oil change should i? seems odd any ideas chaps? he wants to go away in it this weekend too!

what oil did you use?

10/40 semi synthetic morris and a fram ph2991 filter

semi synthetic is a HUGE no no for me

mineral oil, 15/40 (VW recommend) or 20/50.... and a mann filter

is there a check valve on the fram filter?

How many times must we go over this !

I know I know....

rowlesy....what the manual and VW say and what actually work are two different things.

10W/40 is too thin for an aging wasserboxer engine and leads to hydraulic tappets bleeding off overnight.

Drain and refill with a basic MINERAL 15W/40....15W/50....20W/50 and after a 15 minute drive the noise will be gone.

Martin

Can this be made a sticky ? Oil Change Woes Perhaps someone will actually read it instead of this constant muppetry ... I had GSF on the phone the other day with one of our brethren and he had been convinced by one of the 'Look at me .. I'm an expert' web blogs that semi-synthetic was the way to go, fortunately the lads at GSF are decent and wanted what's best for him rather than a more expensive short-term sale.

Ian

Just to get this straight. What oil should I use?

Obviously 10W/40 semi synthetic FLUSHING oil first ....and then some proper 15W/40 Mineral afterwards.....

Martin

Glad that is sorted.

Now what alloys fit my van?

thanks for your help! i can see why i dont come on here much! legbags! too true! tell me,at what age does your girlfriend/wife/boyfriend (for the queers) stop putting out? just so i can change the missus for a new one and then i wont turn out like you sour lot!

rowlesy wrote:thanks for your help! i can see why i dont come on here much! legbags! too true! tell me,at what age does your girlfriend/wife/boyfriend (for the queers) stop putting out? just so i can change the missus for a new one and then i wont turn out like you sour lot!

None taken !

rowlesy wrote:thanks for your help! i can see why i dont come on here much! legbags! too true! tell me,at what age does your girlfriend/wife/boyfriend (for the queers) stop putting out? just so i can change the missus for a new one and then i wont turn out like you sour lot!

This is just one more reason why just because you can reproduce doesn't mean you should.

I'd get rid of him/her/it now as your obviously to busy getting laid to read the wiki!

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Al ... ecommended" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

*sigh*