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pop riveting
Posted: 05 May 2012, 18:07
by orangebooboobearcrew
Gudday!
Tryin to get a few of them little jobs done over the bank holiday. Fitted towbar electrics today already which I've never done before so happy with that!
Next job was to reattach the pop top roof side clips that keep it held down. These were riveted in but rust took its toll on these over the years and came loose so only got a bungee cord holding the roof down on the front at the mo.
I got a decent rivet gun in the week but I have tried to rivet the new brackets on but the rivet does not penetrate the hole in the roof. Presumably I am using the wrong size rivets but I've tried the biggest ones in my toolkit
Does anyone know what it the maximum thickness that can be riveted and also what depth rivets I can get / where from?
Many thanks in advance...
Chris
Re: pop riveting
Posted: 05 May 2012, 19:25
by Wychall
Try these guys.............
http://www.allfix.co.uk/Home" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
They've got me out of a fix before now. They have blind rivets up to 28mm length.
Also, don't be misled by their pricing by 500 or 1000. I have ordered single bolts from them.

Re: pop riveting
Posted: 06 May 2012, 07:03
by orangebooboobearcrew
Great - thanks for link - looks good

Re: pop riveting
Posted: 06 May 2012, 10:08
by New Kentish Campers
If it's possible for you to get behind the part you are about to rivet, try putting a small [1p size for example] washer with the same size rivet hole in it, onto the rivet, so that its against the mating surface before you fix it. It will really add some strength to the joint

Re: pop riveting
Posted: 07 May 2012, 09:49
by orangebooboobearcrew
Great advice guys - thank you.
Managed to get some rivets with 12mm grip (from Homebase in the end - paid through the nose but still only£3 for 15 so can live with that). Gonna have a go in a minute if the rain holds off...

Re: pop riveting
Posted: 07 May 2012, 09:54
by kevtherev
New Kentish Campers wrote:If it's possible for you to get behind the part you are about to rivet, try putting a small [1p size for example] washer with the same size rivet hole in it, onto the rivet, so that its against the mating surface before you fix it. It will really add some strength to the joint

indeed ... and another way to spread the load is to use a smaller distance to the next rivet
Re: pop riveting
Posted: 07 May 2012, 16:52
by hakuna matata
these are what you need i use them with my pop top roof, longer shaft and the heads are the size off a penny , i get mine from a motor factor on trade .
thank you . neil .

Re: pop riveting
Posted: 07 May 2012, 17:11
by orangebooboobearcrew
Right then...tried the new rivets but still no joy
I put the first one in and 'popped' it but whe I pulled on it to check, it came pretty much straight out
I tried putting a rivet in the gun and 'popped' it off the vehicle too see what was happening - the rivet doesn't seem to deform as I would expect - seems to just get a bit thicker and shorter and bends around to one side. On the shorter ones, these deform straight and you get a nice dome at the end. Not sure if this is just because these are so long?
I think these 12mm ones are too long. I reckon some 7mm ones will hopefully be better.
Job for another day...
Re: pop riveting
Posted: 07 May 2012, 17:41
by hakuna matata
happy to help what size pop rivets are you after, put up a picture , it tells thousand words.
neil.

Re: pop riveting
Posted: 07 May 2012, 19:40
by Plasticman
do as suggested and put a washer or plate behind, the slight swelling you speak of is all thats needed in metal but grp is different.
neil how much for the shiny splather gun
mm
Re: pop riveting
Posted: 07 May 2012, 20:33
by hakuna matata
metalmick8y wrote:do as suggested and put a washer or plate behind, the slight swelling you speak of is all thats needed in metal but grp is different.
neil how much for the shiny splather gun
mm
mike when you,ve got three million pop rivet in your pop top you need one of these guns, once you,ve used one of these ,you will go lookin for things to pop.
neil

Re: pop riveting
Posted: 07 May 2012, 20:44
by Plasticman
I knows, but my gun is starting to fail so lining up a new one,
mm
Re: pop riveting
Posted: 07 May 2012, 20:48
by orangebooboobearcrew
Ok - thanks - will get some washers.
Does that mean that I won't need the shorter rivets?
(Sorry I can't post pics at mo as on work laptop and it won't allow me to)
Ta

Re: pop riveting
Posted: 08 May 2012, 08:35
by New Kentish Campers
You'll need rivets that a] will fit the size of the existing hole's diameter and b] long enough to go through the first outer surface, and through into the one behind with enough of the rivet's end being visible, around a 1/4 inch or so. As has been said, if it's possible to get a washer or the like onto the end of it so that as the rivets being pulled, it will squeeze up & into the face of the washer. I'd use stainless washers, if available, so that any condensation inside the van won't give to rust marks onto your trim.
But, if you are going to go through the original holes and they have become larger through drilling out of the old rivets, etc, then make sure you buy a rivet that's a nice and snug fit. If it wobbles around in the hole then it wont give a decent grip and it will all soon work loose.
And the length of the rivets wont matter that much providing of course that once pulled, their ends dont foul anything once you put the trim, etc back in.
Lastly, if your supplier doesn't stock suitable rivets , look in Yellow pages and the like for a coachbuilding/bodybuilding firm and see if you can speak to a friendly fitter who works there and scrounge some suitable rivets & washers from him, put a couple of quid in the tea box by way of payment [works for me down the local Scarab Sweepers place anyway...]