Club 80-90 Forums

Whats the deal with "slight play" with the bearing in T25s? I'm fairly new to this game having only bought mine in Feb, but from what I've read it's usual to have "slight play"? Just got mine back from the MOT and these were pretty much the only advisories on the list. Except its all the wheels...
Just thought I'd check on here!

Ta

Negativegravity wrote:Whats the deal with "slight play" with the bearing in T25s? I'm fairly new to this game having only bought mine in Feb, but from what I've read it's usual to have "slight play"? Just got mine back from the MOT and these were pretty much the only advisories on the list. Except its all the wheels...
Just thought I'd check on here!

Ta

Interesting. Mine went for MOT today.

Had an advisory on NS rear bearing slight play

If they have slight play is it a case of leaving them till they get worse?

Then replace?

I was going to have ago at replacing it but if it's normal I wont bother.

This is where I read it...

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... y#p7734737" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

yep wont argue with the advice on the link but remember that bearings have aa set of numbers on the side of the outer race usually and this denotes the spec of the bearing, go to a local bearing supplier and they will have available different qualities of bearings and take their advice ,and note the diffenence in cost of a run of the mill brand and a premium, also a cheaper way of buying good quality
mm

It is normal to have a degree of play in both front and rears. Fronts use taper roller bearings and are set with a small amount of play to allow for expansion. Rears are the more recognisable ball bearing type and where as you don't set free play in these, there is a certain amount of clearance that gives play in an assembled hub.
However...Note* it is recognised that the bearings can wear the rear hub creating excessive play even after new bearings are fitted.
My advise would be: As long as they run smooth and the play isn't excessive, just keep a close eye on them.
NOTE* With bearing failure there is nearly always a bearing rumble/whiring sound for some time preceeding actual failure.....you generally get plenty of warning!

Martin

Ah, cheers guys. So... forgive me if this is a dumb question. But what exactly is going on here when there's "play"? Bearings worn and so smaller? Where does the movement come from?!

Thanks

In my case, assuming the MOT tester is right, and the other three bearings do have no play.

Does that mean somethings wrong?

Sorry about these questions. I'm struggling to understand this one!

If one of them has more play than the other 3 then yes I would keep an eye (and ear) on it.

My MOT place tells me EVERY year that I have slight play on my rear bearings. They have been pointing it out for 8 years now and it is still on the same bearings ! I tell them each year it is normal, but they keep telling me I will need to replace them soon

ghost123uk wrote:If one of them has more play than the other 3 then yes I would keep an eye (and ear) on it.

My MOT place tells me EVERY year that I have slight play on my rear bearings. They have been pointing it out for 8 years now and it is still on the same bearings ! I tell them each year it is normal, but they keep telling me I will need to replace them soon

Thanks. Eye's and Ear's it is then.



Andy

metalmick8y wrote:yep wont argue with the advice on the link but remember that bearings have aa set of numbers on the side of the outer race usually and this denotes the spec of the bearing, go to a local bearing supplier and they will have available different qualities of bearings and take their advice ,and note the diffenence in cost of a run of the mill brand and a premium, also a cheaper way of buying good quality
mm

Don't be thinking you'll get good quality bearings cheaper over a trade counter ... many bearing suppliers are selling chinkie crap which are plated not hardened and polished.

I'm in the trade and got the numbers off my old fronts (bear in mind every part of the fronts has a part number because the inner and outer part of each bearing is a separate part) and even with trade+ discount I could only just match Brickwerks for FAG bearings, the seals took it over.

Ian

P.S. = if it does start to make a noise, get it changed straight away as I understand that a failed bearing can cause expensive damage to the hub or summat. Not had personal experience of this, I think I read it on here somewhere...

Buy from Brickwerks to make sure you get a quality item (unlike some). E D I T = as Ian says and beat me to it

ghost123uk wrote:P.S. = if it does start to make a noise, get it changed straight away as I understand that a failed bearing can cause expensive damage to the hub or summat. Not had personal experience of this, I think I read it on here somewhere...

Buy from Brickwerks to make sure you get a quality item (unlike some). E D I T = as Ian says and beat me to it

Yep will do. I understand

ghost123uk wrote:P.S. = if it does start to make a noise, get it changed straight away as I understand that a failed bearing can cause expensive damage to the hub or summat. Not had personal experience of this, I think I read it on here somewhere...

Buy from Brickwerks to make sure you get a quality item (unlike some). E D I T = as Ian says and beat me to it

Most bearings work on an Interference fit (pressed together) on the outter part of the race and a clearance fit (slides together with a small clearance) on the inner part. This means that the outter never spins in it's hub carrier but the inner can, resulting in wear on the shaft supporting it.
You often see stub axles worn from spinning inner bearing races and the only thing you can do is replace the stub axle or...if you are clever, build the area up with weld and re-machine to original size.



Martin

Good info Martin