Club 80-90 Forums

My Syncro is smooth as glass at freeway speeds and it's because the front diff is perfectly lined up. I don't want to change that. Frankly, I'm petrified to change that. I'm pulling the tranny and the Bentley wants you to loosen the front diff so you can get room to remove the driveshaft from the rear end where it mates up to the tranny.

I have my bolts off the drive shaft flanges there at the tranny, and was hoping I could gently lever the rear flanges apart to drop the shaft. But there must be a circular lip to help locate the shaft, not simply two flat faces as it won't slip apart. How big is that lip, and have any others used motorcycle straps or similar to flex the front diff mounts to get room? How about when I lower the tranny 6" to access the starter wiring to disconnect it - will that let the shaft fall off?

I'm terribly reluctant to allow that front diff to move. Also sensitive not to place longitudinal force on the shaft too much by prying the flanges apart. Any help, or a picture? Thank you.

DougM

loosen the front diff mounts and use a prybar against the mounting bar and the body to lever the front transmission forward 1/2cm, don't get hung up on allignment imho
the UJ and flange may well be slightly rusted together

The flanges are actually loose, I just don't know how much distance I'm needing to pry to get a feel for the force req'd. Is it .5cm or so - just a tiny lip? If so, I think it will fall out of the lip's edge when I lower the tranny's nose. What say ye?

DougM

it will come off with a bit of messing...both mine did anyway.

Mine pulled out quite easy when i removed the front diff. Without touching the diff, i removed the nuts and bolt from one end of the prop and it just dropped down. As said, yours might be rusted together?

I had the same problem yesterday... I used a small hammer and then the plates (gbox one and shaft one) let 1mm to use a screwdriver with the hammer and then separate the plates...

I have the 1.9 petrol only solid prop so no give at all in the driveline.. I line up the front diff so the prop sits nicely between the flanges so its not being compressed or stretched.. with the diff bolted down, a small pry bar between the subframe and the diff housing moves the diff enough to release the prop.. the flanges have a 3-4mm centering ring on them.. if you cant move the diff enough to release the prop then its compressing the prop too much in my opinion..

diff has been in and out several times on mine.. I dont do anything fancy lining up, just make sure the cvs and driveshafts have the same play in and out.. and the prop distance ok..

My prop is in and out a lot.. as I have a stiff VC and just havent got round to installing the decoupler thats in my wardrobe...

Take the bolts out, get on your back and push both your knee against the front and push up and it will pop off. Then use that end to leaver outwards to free the gearbox end that always gets stuck.

Jed

Jed,

A human-powered possibility sounds promising. However you must have done it so many times you've lost the ability to describe what you do. Try me again but tell me what the knees on the front mean (front of what?), etc.

Thanks!!

IdahoDoug wrote:Jed,

A human-powered possibility sounds promising. However you must have done it so many times you've lost the ability to describe what you do. Try me again but tell me what the knees on the front mean (front of what?), etc.

Thanks!!

The front of the prop Doug.

jed

leave one of the bolts in either end until you have got it loose, that way you won`t get your fingers trapped and bleed a lot, and watch your fingernails turn black and fall off.
thats what i heard anyway from a guy i know

Jason,

My last little injury from rushing to get the van ready for its inaugural trip last week is almost healed. I must be ready for another pinched finger, lump on the head, or torn flesh. Merely a fleshwound, eh?

E D I T. Overthinking this. Will do as advised and flex the front diff mounts to remove.