Club 80-90 Forums

Greatly inspired by a number of superb recent threads on here I've already fettled my gearchange (oo'er missus) and now its time to have a look at the rash (ooh matron). Sorry is it just me or is anyone else affected by the multitude of carry on films that've been on the box lately?

Anyhow, got myself a Dremel a few weeks back in readiness for a dry and warm bank holiday weekend when I could take my time and fettle the bodywork a bit. It's not too bad but I reckon that its better to try and catch things early if possible to keep major work at bay for as long as possible.

Initially thought I'd do section by section with a view of learning by mistakes as I go on with a hope that I might get some way to perfecting a reasonable technique as I go on. However, given the typical bank holiday weather Plan B now is just to scape away the rot where I can and Vactan the open seams to protect it until it does warm up before I repaint.

The rash is mostly around the rear wheelarch areas although there is some on the front side just behind the drivers door and (as suspected) some along the seam behind the side plank under the kitchen window, although thankfully now I've got the side plank off, its not as extensive as I'd feared - to my eyes anyway.

Overall I guess the lack of rot is mostly down to the fact that westy's were based on the caravelle and had better rust proofing than other conversions that are based on the standard transporter.

Anyhow, I took some pics but beacuse Im a bit of a technoprat I still need to work out how to load them up. I'm likely to have a load of questions as I go so I'm hoping that you more experienced body work members will endulge me with your hard earned knowledge and experience.

Ok, think I've got it, this is the rear section drivers side (lhd of course). This didn't show until I took the rear bumper off.





The offside was more noticeable above the bumper, more rot became evident once the bumper came off.



This side is after I'd dremeled out the sealer and got to work with a 15mm wire brush in the grown up power drill too. Cleaned up the rust quite well, not too much pitting beyond the immediate seam area. Think Ive applied the Vactan a bit too liberally tho!

Also had a problem on the seam behind the drivers door, I took off the side plank (thanks to Titus a Duxass for info on how to do it) to see if this was hiding a lot of nasties but thankfully it wasn't too bad.



One of the rivets holding the retaining bands had corroded off. Had to drill out the rivets to remove 2 of the side plank holding bands to get to the area that had got the rash but it didnt goo all the way accross.

So, questions.

From what I've read, I understand that I could leave the treated seams as they are now without having to prime or paint over in a hurry?

When I do come to paint, while I'm gonna be using the original Alpine White ina spray can, I'm assuming I can follow the general guidelines for CovKids paint yer wagon with a roller thread, i.e.thin laters, flatted back with wet n dry to build up a series of smooth layers?

Yes you're right, the seams can be left with just Vactan until you're ready. When you are, build the surface up with high-build primer before flatting smooth ready for rollering. The advantage of leaving them for a while is it will help pinpoint any areas that need further work or investigation.

Thanks for sharing your photos etc, as I will be tackling my seam rash soon once the snow has gone. Got everything I need to get started last year.

Is vatcan any good, ive been looking for something to kill the metal worms with?
Cheers
G

See how many times it comes up if you search for it on here. Vactan has been used by the military. Some time ago I gave a thin coat of Vactan to the rusty bolt on my back gate. It turned black and still looks the same nearly three years later, with no paint or anything else on it. Consider all the rain, snow and adverse conditions during that time.

However, what you can't do is put back what has rusted away and it can be difficult to eradicate rust in areas where you can't get to the back or the metal and/or where there is already noticeable holes. Always best to fit new metal where you can.

I discovered it some years ago and gave it some serious testing (since adopted by many on 80/90 as a good treatment). Its based on tannin in an acrylic medium. A great thing for any VW camper owner to have around as you can slow down or even stop corrosion if you apply it at the first sign of trouble, but leave any gaps where oxygen can get to the steel and it'll rust again. Seams fit into that category.

It has been argued that there is nothing that can stop rust when it gets a hold but I've treated areas over 7 years ago that have remained stable. A few spots did not but these were VERY difficult areas like the bottom of the tailgate where seams are inaccessible other than trickling it inside (not that easy). I have in the past brushed it down panel seams and then used a compressor to encourage better penetration but seams are seams - you need to hit both sides.

Have I tried others? Yes, many over 20 years (big brands) and none came close to Vactan and nearly all require painting soon after (unlike Vactan) but note what I say above.

P.S. the above photos of seam rash will require a lot of work. I'd be removing paint back to shiny steel around those areas, grit blasting and using a variety of tools to clear as much corrosion as possible before slapping Vactan on. Then its a case of restoring shape and surface with primer. Getting to the back of those seams is important otherwise it'll be back within a year.

Thank you for taking the time to explain in such detail, very informative. Ive seen it on fleabay for £11 a litre plus £5 p&p so that doesnt sound too bad. I think ill being getting me some.
Many thanks
G

You don't want a litre. Go for smaller bottle. It goes a very LONG way. Shake bottle well before each use. Wear rubber gloves. No prob explaining. I'm not noted for few words

CovKid wrote:You don't want a litre. Go for smaller bottle. It goes a very LONG way. Shake bottle well before each use. Wear rubber gloves. No prob explaining. I'm not noted for few words

Cheers will order me some tomrw.
G