Club 80-90 Forums

cobblers wrote: ↑20 Aug 2025, 07:44 A bit late for the advice now but one thing I *always* do after doing any work on the coolant system is pressure test it all by blowing an airline up the nose of the dalek cap. Add pressure bit by bit til the cap burps off and then you can be sure that the valve in the cap is the weakest link.

Unfortunately l do not possess an airline.

Still no joy. Another good (tested) thermostat and still no heat coming out of top the thermostat housing. Even after twenty minutes of fast idling and temp gauge well past 12 o'clock. The new engine is going to be shot by the time l solve this!

Will take it around the block a few times. If no change will remove thermostat and try it again.

Beginning to wonder whether l left a rag in a coolant pipe?

AND oil light not working again. I'm becoming highly skeptical of the relocated oil switch. Exactly what happened last time l fitted it to another engine!

AND AND l have just noticed my motorcycle has a puncture in rear tyre. Oh joy!

At last a bit of progress. Took it for a swift-ish drive along seafront. Then stopped with engine running and bled radiator. Some air came out. Not a lot though. But radiator now had heat in it. Repeated twice.
Oil light worked on switch off switch on. Then when home tested again. No oil light!

Anyroads. The 2.1 pulls really well and it is far better mated to the 1.9 differential than the 1.9. The 2.1 has the torque to push it along at lower gear changes the NK box supplies. Whereas the 1.9 would be dreadfully sluggish when changing up from second gear to drive at around 35mph.

We are going on hols tomorrow. So time to clean up and sort out myself.

Thank you

So we managed the 50 miles to Dungeness without issue, apart from DOP buzzer of doom going off 300 yards from start and yet again no oil light on dash.

Fiddled with wires in engine bay and no buzzer on start up and a quick rev, yet still no oil light... what a way to start a new engine break in.

Stopped half way for refreshments and tasty salmon quiche at tearoom in the quaint village of Elham. On start oil light working. No buzzer of doom. No issues. Phew. Engine temp gauge running slightly higher than normal. Perhaps air still in system.

Checked oil level and coolant. All normal.

Tomorrow is another day. So let's see what heart stopping adventure comes our way.

I know its not the weather for it stu but make sure your heaters on as that will need to be bled through as well.

Stu, did you replace the temp sender at all? If so, when I replaced mine the needle now sits slightly right of centre but it pretty much never moves and just stays there.

If it’s the original one, could be a bit of air like you said

Stesaw wrote: ↑21 Aug 2025, 17:04 I know its not the weather for it stu but make sure your heaters on as that will need to be bled through as well.

Yep. Heater on during bleed operation.

300CE wrote: ↑21 Aug 2025, 17:46 Stu, did you replace the temp sender at all? If so, when I replaced mine the needle now sits slightly right of centre but it pretty much never moves and just stays there.

If it’s the original one, could be a bit of air like you said

Hi J, the temp sender was new one year ago. But could be worth changing once more. A bit concerning. But at least weather is a bit cooler today. In fact it is rather chilly here in Dungeness tonight.

Well would you Adam and Eve it!

Turned on ignition this morning and no oil light again.
What to do next? I have changed wiring, the two pin connector for both oil switches and checked for continuity at many points. All good. Could the new blue oil switch be faulty?
However, my first technical prognosis led to success. Ignition on. No oil light. Tap top of dash binnacle.... and hey presto.... l have a flashing oil light.

What a go on!

Looks like it's your dash then!

The gold "contacts" tarnish and also the flex pcb cracks around where it plugs into the oil pressure board inside the speedo.
The legs of the LEDs tarnish too.

If you have a minute it'd be worth whipping the clocks out and having a look around em. Scotchbrite / magic eraser cleans up tarnished contacts pretty well.

Don't be tempted to get one of those 3D printed boxes with ten million wires off it that replace the flex PCB.... In solving one problem, you'll cause a dozen others.

A proper PCB is a good solution if executed well.

Thanks to both. Having a day off from all these shenanigans, now.

Now on the RH&D miniature railway to Hythe.

A day trip to Hastings provided more entertainment than l cared for.

The camper that just keeps giving..... me stress!
As l parked in a side street in Hastings, a puff of steam from the rear! A quick glance at temp gauge shows a normal reading? Off with the engine cover to source latest escapade with this latest camper.

The side thermostat housing sensor has come loose. Fitting pin clip is hanging out. What the flip!!
Pressed sensor firmly home and reinstated clip. No leak. Boy oh boy! This is testing me.



Driving back to Dungeness and temp gauge still higher than l care for.

Blame the engine builder for that

TwinTurbo wrote: ↑24 Aug 2025, 01:44 Blame the engine builder for that

How very dare you!