Club 80-90 Forums

Got the vac pipe on correctly?
When I changed my dizzy, my timing was out so much that it wouldn't start, and just backfired horrendously.

It's deffo connected, but im not sure if it's connected to the correct nozzle on the carb. Maybe I'll try disconnecting it and seeing if it runs any better, thanks smiffo

If it is a pierburg carb, one vac pipe goes to the warm air bit joined to air box. That one can be blocked off at the carb.
The other goes to the vac unit on the dizzy.

I can find a pic if you want it. Itchy feet posted a pic of the carb with labels to denote what goes where etc.

I'm on my phone now, so if you want me to find it just reply here and i will post from my laptop later

Hey smiffo, I've got a Weber 34 DAT so is a different scenario in afraid. Thanks for the offer tho

Just a quick update on this saga. The vacuum unit didn't work on the dizzy, sucked and there was no movement and no vacuum was created.

Popped the old one back in, timed it, van running fine. Gonna get this one sorted and have another go of fitting it.

Quick one, the van is at TDC, number 1 piston is firing. Is it a concern that the dizzy locator isn't perpendicular to the crank seam? The video below explains a thousand words.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/uf3sazpqi5miw ... 6.mp4?dl=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Just to cap this thread off for anyone viewing in the future. I tried the new dizzy with the faulty vacuum unit replaced on it. The van runs perfectly, I can really tell the difference when accelerating, it's so much smoother, also I had to kind of "tease" my foot of the accelerator before and now there's no need to do that.

Now I'm going to go onto tappets, never done them before but look forward to learning.

Thank you everyone in this thread for your advice, couldn't have done it on my own.

cubensis wrote: Now I'm going to go onto tappets, never done them before but look forward to learning.

Thank you everyone in this thread for your advice, couldn't have done it on my own.

If you are setting preload on tappets remember you probably won't be able to start it straight away, you need to give them time to drain down otherwise you have no compression, say 1 hour.

Ah okay, not really sure what preload is. I was just going to check the distances with a feeler gauge and adjust accordingly. As you may be able to tell I've not really read up on it yet. Thanks for the info tho, saves me thinking I've written the van off.

Hydraulic lifters means no gaps under the rockers
Wiki has all you need.
Some reading.
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/HydraulicLifters.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

kevtherev wrote:Hydraulic lifters means no gaps under the rockers
Wiki has all you need.
Some reading.
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/HydraulicLifters.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

That's great, thanks. I'll read up on it n hopefully stop writing things that don't make sense, cheers.

Just before I do tho, is there any servicing of the tappets needed at all?

If your tappets are noisy you can try and reset preload, it may or may not help.
It will help if your preload was never set properly before, I set to 1 turn recently to see what happened and they were noisy, put if back to two turns and they were much quieter.
It's described in Haynes, turn crank clockwise.

Okay, I'll go through some literature.

The only reason this had come up is because a garage told me I need an engine rebuild because my compression was low. Then a combination of friends, people on here and another garage said that should be a last resort and you could probably get an extra 10% power by adjusting the tappets properly.

I've had the van around 7 years and never had the tappets looked at, I was reading in the haynes earlier that it's a good idea to look at them every 3000 miles. In addition the engine sometimes sound like it's throwing a bag of nails around so to me this seems like enough evidence to read up on and check out.

Just thought I'd document my reasons. Thanks for the tips itchy, I'll read up on this preload thing, couldn't find tappet adjustment in the Haynes maybe it's because I didn't look for preload.

Everything is in the Ratwell link.
Adjustment, renewal, reasons for noise, where the noise is coming from
Please read it all.

lifters are not unique to VW.
It's all in the link but noisy lifters have many reasons.
Inactivity is one, they simply drain down.

A lot of good engines have been scrapped because of misunderstanding.
A lifter is the most highly engineered part on your VW.

cubensis wrote:, couldn't find tappet adjustment in the Haynes maybe it's because I didn't look for preload.

It's at the end of the engine out rebuild section because you normally only do it after a head has been off